2007 Clio SXT (Vibe)

[ClioSXT]

Afternoon All.

Pictures ...

Hears a description of the things I've done to my clio so far. (at least what i can remember!)

2007 Renault Clio Dynamique SX 1.2TCE

Twin tone Air horns (mounted behind Front bumper) Custom intake system and filter, Sebring Sport Back Box. HKS SSQV Black Edition Dump valve (25mm adapter). Wind Deflectors, AutoBra Carbra, Renault sport Steering wheel badge, Extra Tinted rear windows (25%), L.E.D Interior Roof and Foot well Lights + R8 Style Sidelights, Clio 200 Floor Mats, 197 Alloy Pedals + Footrest. 25mm Hub-centric Spacers on the rear (25mm Each side, Not in these pictures as i've only just put them on), "Tim" Boost Gauge, Re-Map (130-8HP, 150Ft-Lb's)

Soon i will be changing the Standard wheels to a set of Caliber Vintage 17x8's (F) and 17x9 (R), a full custom stainless S2000 Style exhaust system, and possibly airbag shocks.

Audio ...

1 x Sony CDX-GT20RN. Head unit (Supports the cars factory dash display and steering remote controls allowing all to be fully functional).

1 x Pro-Sonic 1.0 Farad Capacitor. (Mounted directly to the VIBE Sub-Woofer).
1 x 4 AWG In-Phase Power Cable. (8 inch length) (Battery to Circuit breaker) (Gold Plated terminals).
2 x 5" to 6" Custom made MDF speaker adaptors.
4 x 6" Custom made felt speaker gaskets.
1 x RS Short Roof Radio Arial.

Under Bonnet :

1 x VIBE 140 AMP Circuit Breaker. (Custom mounted to under bonnet battery housing).
2 x VIBE 60 AMP inline fuses.


Front Seating Area (forward) I.C.E. Installation:

Powered by:
1 x VIBE LiteAir Stereo 4 Amplifier. (Class GH). Wired and used as a Bi-Amp for front door mounted Space 6 speakers & Dashboard mounted 3D Tweeters. (Mounted in offside rear footwell on wall).

Also required:
1 x FLI (VIBE) Line Level Converter. Installed behind head unit in the dashboard. (Used to give low level RCA Phono outputs from the head unit to the VIBE LiteAir Stereo 4 Amplifier (For the front channels only)).

VIBE Space 6 Kit including:
2 x VIBE Space 6 Midrange speakers. (Mounted to front door panels, using inbuilt LiteBox crossovers to complete the Bi-Amp setup).
2 x VIBE Space 3-way Crossover's (Mounted behind the dashboard (Setup as 2 way only, controlling only the 3D units on dashboard).
2 x VIBE Space 45mm Tweeter units. (Mounted on top of dashboard in '3D' arrangement).
2 x VIBE Space 38mm Tweeter units. (Mounted on top of dashboard in '3D' arrangement).

1 x VIBE 8 AWG Stereo Wiring kit containing:
1 x VIBE 60 Amp inline fuse. (Used under bonnet).
1 x 3M VIBE RCA Stereo Phono lead, Ferrite loaded.
1 x 5M VIBE 8 AWG Red Power cable.
1 x 1M VIBE Earth lead (Gold Plated Terminals).
1 x 5M VIBE 16 AWG remote cable.


Rear Seating Area (Rear) I.C.E. Installation:

Powered by:
The Sony CDX-GT20RN head unit's built-in 4 x 50 WATT RMS amplifier's rear channel outputs directly.

Installed in rear offside footwell.
1 x VIBE LiteAir Stereo 4 Amplifier. (Class GH)
2 x VIBE RCA Y-Splitter Adapter Leads. (Ferrite Loaded). (For Bi-Amping LiteAir Amp)

VIBE BlackAir 6 Kit including:
2 x VIBE BlackAir 6 Speaker Units. (Mounted in rear side panel).
2 x VIBE BlackAir 2-way Crossover Units. (Mounted inside rear side panel).
2 x VIBE BlackAir 38mm Silk Dome Tweeter Units. (Mounted in angled pods on rear parcel shelf supports).

The boot Sub-Woofer I.C.E. installation:

Powered by:
1 x VIBE SQ12 EVO Active Bass Enclosure containing:
1 x 1200 RMS VIBE Black Box Bass Amplifier. (Class AB).
1 x VIBE SQ12 Evolution Space 2 Sub-Woofer (3000W peak).
1 x VIBE Sub-Woofer Guard. (Installed to the sub's face).
1 x Pro-Sonic 1.0 Farad Capacitor. (Mounted and wired directly to the VIBE Sub-Woofer).

1 x VIBE 8 AWG Bass Wiring kit containing:
1 x VIBE 60 Amp inline fuse. (Used under bonnet).
1 x 3M VIBE RCE Bass Phono cable, Ferrite loaded.
1 x 5M VIBE 8 AWG Red Power cable.
1 x 1M VIBE Earth cable (Gold Plated Terminals).
1 x 5M VIBE 16 AWG remote cable.
1 x VIBE Quick Plug, Inline plug & socket. (Allows easy quick removal of Active Bass unit from boot to give full and total rear storage access).

The complete bass woofer unit including the capacitor is very easy to disconnect, remove and reinstall (seconds only) when the full rear load space or access to the floor (spare wheel, tools) is required. This also allows the rest of the system to operate normally with or without the unit (Bass lacking, of course!). The Sony head unit also gives good control of the bass signal directly which is very nice!

Miscellanies:

20M x VIBE 12 AWG Flat Stereo audio cable.
4 x Rolls of ANTI-VIBE Anti-resonance material.
1 x VIBE Sub-Woofer Guard.

Additional VIBE styling:
1 x VIBE Magnetic Tax Disc holder
3 x VIBE "Space" Window Logos (Mounted on all three rear windows (Thanks to "Tal Sanga" at VIBE)).
2 x "VIBE" External Logos (Mounted on lower corners of rear windscreen).

Its took roughly a year to get to the stage the audio is now, as it was all done gradually.

Feel free to comment, I know its not to everyones tastes, but i love it to bits

 

[Courtney]

"like" and just so everyone knows what a top lad you are, Craig is the guy who helped/mainly planned what I'm putting in mine

 

[ClioSXT]

Oh behave Courtney *Blushes*

P.S Get back to me if you want any more Idea's/Technical drawings of your system making up (as i might struggle for time when i go back to uni next week)

 

[weebob]

Awesome

 

[Courtney]

Haha, well How hard is it to wire the sub up to the standard headunit? That's the main thing I want and I would do that by end of October, otherwise rest of it has to wait till Christmas time unless I win the lottery before haha!

 

[ClioSXT]

Its not too hard. As the stock head unit dont have any pre-outs you will need to make them ... its fairly simple (I've done it with mine!). What you will need is one of these.

https://www.dvbcaraudio.co.uk/fllc-line-level-converter-p-13828.html

What you do with these is you wire it into the speaker cables coming out of the back of the head unit (Hi-Level). there are 4 cables (Left +, left -, Right +, Right -) once connected, This now gives you the L/R RCA (Low Level) Feeds.

You then plug your RCA leads into The unit and the other end of the RCA into your amp. Jobs a good un

There are cheeper versions of this unit, but ideally you want the unit to be "transformed" (to lower the Voltage) where as some of the cheeper "halfords" units aren't and could cause trouble for your amp if your not carefull (also "transformed" reduce the chance's of interference)

 

[Courtney]

excellent cheers buddy!!! will get it known by the mother what i want and then get my cousin to put it in at some point when I'm back from uni!


You got any more plans for the system? Weren't you thinking of a new amp??

 

[ClioSXT]

Haha nice one.

Yes my system will be upgraded. I'm going to be changing the Sub and amp + Capacitor soon.

It will be changed to a "New" space Bass amp. and a Space BD12 "Bandpass" Enclosure.

My current Space sub and amp is using "Old fashioned ..." AB Technology, Were as the New space Amps use GH Technology (gives a much clearer sound, and produces less heat + physical size of the amp is smaller.

However i think the next things on the list for me is wheels, exhaust and roof bars (Already got the roof box)

 

[Leanne]

:shock: wow dude nice job!!! bet that sounds AMAZING!!!!! I want!!

 

[ClioSXT]

Cheers its took many hours of work to get it to where it is now. i couldn't be happier with how it sounds XD.

Ive been up against a few mates with systems that have been 'professionally' installed and cost 3x as much and I've put them to shame in terms of SQ and Volume !!! (Dont say much for the professionals does it!)

Photoshops of upcoming changes ...

Exhaust ...

Wheels ...

(Please excuse the Fail on the front wheel, I'm not a expert on photoshopping)

 

[Courtney]

Have you already lost the back badge? It looks a bit empty but I like ;-)

 

[pritchp]

Oh behave Courtney *Blushes*

P.S Get back to me if you want any more Idea's/Technical drawings of your system making up (as i might struggle for time when i go back to uni next week)

Can i ask you for some help on audio too?

i drive a bmw 1 series coupe and i want to make the audio even better through better speakers/amps/subs maybe etc...

any ideas as i have no idea

thanks!

 

[Courtney]

Oh behave Courtney *Blushes*

P.S Get back to me if you want any more Idea's/Technical drawings of your system making up (as i might struggle for time when i go back to uni next week)

Can i ask you for some help on audio too?

i drive a bmw 1 series coupe and i want to make the audio even better through better speakers/amps/subs maybe etc...

any ideas as i have no idea

thanks!

That was pretty much how I asked haha

 

[ClioSXT]

No i haven't lost the back badge, And i won't be. it was just a trial thin on photoshop to see what it would look like (+ it would be to much trouble to do)

Yes i can help out with some kind of audio system ... Do you know what the current size speakers are? I'm guessing its a standard BMW system ? PM me if you know any of these factors

 

[BlackTwingo-i]

Nice car man! Like what you've done so far

In my opinion I think you should keep the Renault diamond cause it looks mega plain and not that good without.. Maybe take the 'renault' and/or the 'clio' ones?

If anything you should get those horrible black trims gone! I've always thought If I had one of these I would get the side ones colour coded same as the car, and the rear ones smoothed over cause the bumper isn't a bad shape, just has black trim making it look low spec :/

Get then smoothed! Photoshop it
They are pretty nice wheels too.. Ever though of getting OEM sport alloys? Obviously not the new sport ones cause they are 5 stud.. But 4 stud sport ones?

 

[ClioSXT]

Cheers BlackTwingo-i.

I have been tempted to get the rubbing strips matched, but I've seen a few clio's that have had them done (Optional Extra) And it don't seem to work with the silver paint. (also the first time they get touched it the paint will flake off as the plastic is soft to touch).

You wouldnt believe how many different wheels i have looked at and photoshopped. But I've narrowed it down to either the Calibre Vintage (Photoshopped) or a set of Twingo 133's. BUT (and its kinda a big But!) A set of New twingo133 alloys will set me back around £800 just for the alloys, where as i can get the Calibre Vintages (which are wider) for half the price ... Also i am going down the "Euro Look" (RoofBox, Wide Stretched wheels, Carbra ECT.)

Which are the 4 stud sport wheels? The current ones are "canasta" which are standard for the SX Model (ALso the largest ones available as standard extra's for non sport clios)

I have took the "Renault" and "Clio" Off before, but strangely i started to have people ask "what is it?" so i put them back on lol

 

[ClioSXT]

Borbet A's Photoshop ....

Though i would trial the traditional Borbet A's

Unfortunately its not possible to get them in the size i will need so its a bit of a no go already ...

`Current exhaust system ....

Proposed exhaust system ....

(The mid box bypass system is looking very unlikely (as i can't get hold of a wastegate actuator)

 

[BlackTwingo-i]

Them Borbets look mint! And with the bumper bits I mean completely removed, filled in flush and painted so it's asif there arnt any at all! I know what you mean about nobody knowing what your car is when you take the badges off! So annoying haha

I've got the old Clio sport wheels on my twingo, anthracite 182s..
Abut unlikely but you could get a 5 stood adapter and get some new Clio or megane sport ones would look awesome, but very expensive

 

[Courtney]

No need to get 5 stud adaptor the clio is 5 stud isn't it??!

 

[ClioSXT]

all non-sport clios are 4x100 PCD, Sports are 5 stud . Mines 4 stud, Like twingos

Ahh, thats to much work XD. I'm not a big fan of changing body panels etc the least tarts been changed the less trouble it is usually (although the rubbing strips did used to rattle like hell when i first installed the door speakers!!)

The borbets again would be to much trouble. i would have to buy a set of them second hand, Not sure if there available in the size ill be needing. Then mess bout refurbishing them and re-drilling ... its just not worth the time and effort when i can buy the calibre's for £400.