Air con problem

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markhardy

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My air con stopped working a few weeks ago (in this weather i Know :roll: )

I had it regassed in November and it was running fine!

One day it just didnt get cold at all, it was just as cold with the aircon turned off.

I've noticed now that if you have the blower set to off, and you press the air con button the compressor doesn't kick in.

If you then turn the blower to one, you can here a hissing sound within the interior of the car. You cannot hear the hissing under the bonnet due to the engine

It''ll be going back under warranty but just curious as to what it might be
 

jakeyb19

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Mine has just started doing the exact same thing, So just going to get it re gassed and see how it goes. Hopefully the compressor isnt knackered!
 

markhardy

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i'll get a check done on it at a local garage, then if it's the compressor I'll chase it up under warranty.

Perfect time of year to fail haha
 

singlespeed

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Does the engine rpm change (maybe briefly) when switching a/c on or off?

Is there a temp change between the two pipes between the pump and bulkhead ( the metal pair that run back along the drivers side inner wing and round the suspension turret)
 

markhardy

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No, the rpm does not drop briefly like it used to.

How long do I need to have it running before checking the temp differences? I'll check toomorrow
 

singlespeed

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markhardy":225preju said:
No, the rpm does not drop briefly like it used to.

How long do I need to have it running before checking the temp differences? I'll check toomorrow
The ac pump normaly takes enough power to cause the idle speed to briefly drop before the ecu counters the additional load and picks it back up to slightly higher than previous.

30 seconds to a minute should see a difference between the warm and cold pipe from the pump and the heater assembly.

It was one in the front of the engine bay fusebox, but i cant remember exactly which of the relays or, which of its pins it was that I bridged to test my ac clutch and pump. My climate control doesnt work but I managed to freeze the cold pipe after bridging the relay connections to supply 12v to the clutch... so, my clutch, pump and gas are finee but the climate ECU isnt playing.
If your still stuck, I'll have a look at my drawings on monday when im back home

Is yours a/c or climate control?
 

markhardy

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A/C

I just can't see it being a leak as it was working fine the day before. Then it just stopped working altogether - pump didnt kick in, revs didnt drop when turning a/c on, and no cold air whatsoever. The hissing sound points towards a leak though
 

markhardy

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If there is a leak of some sort, does the system detect the low pressure and therefore doesn't allow the compressor to start?
 

oscar

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if it's any help mate, there was a boy on here the other day who posted a video and question relating to the same thing. his video showed a clicking nose when he engaged the ac system. that sound stems from the coil engaging the clutch inside the pulley. there could be a few issues here, as neil has hinted at relating to the coil or a possible bad earth. what to do is make sure that you are getting your 12v / 4amp supply to the AC. if this is good, then remove the aux belt and the air con pulley to measure the air gap between the clutch plate and pulley.
renault specifies a gap of 0,85-1,30 within tolerance. anything exceeding this will be the route of your problem mark mate :)

the system will still run, even with a leak. it will just constantly try to achieve pressure but it will never happen. the only way to verify a leak will be to have it re-gassed with a leak check. they'll put a small amount of refrigerent mixed with air and a dye in, and they will watch out for the leak to track it's source should a leak turn out to be the cause of your problems
 

singlespeed

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I know that my fault is down to the climate ECU not playing with the standalone. Im guessing yours is an electrical fault as I also sometimes hear a hissing sound, yet my AC climate doesnt work. I had my system pressure checked and the pressure was fine.

Unlike my motorised climate controled version, your temperature control is a simple lever/cable operated function to divert air through the heater matrix or cold matrix. So, you can probably discount that for not getting cold.

I've had a quick look at one of the diagrams but I haven't got the AC ones here. So I can't give too much detail.

Check to see if the switch lights up for the AC and rear screen demist, when you select them on- no light would possibly indicate a blown fuse in the glovebox.

If the above looks good, find relay F which is in the engine bay fuse/relay box (the one with the bonnet support resting on it)
technical-stuff-f120/twingo-and-wind-fuses-and-relays-t10811.html

Pull out the relay and you will see four pins which will have numbers next to them
85 and 86 are for the relay coil which energises and closes the contact switch.
30 should have 12v available when the ignition is switched on but it won't go anywhere until the coil energises
87 goes to the air con clutch and will get power from pin 30 once the relay is closed

With the relay removed, use a multimeter to test for 12v DC where pin 30 goes. With ignition on, test between here and the battery negative terminal- I doubt you will have a problem as this is fed from one of the main supplies

I made up a short wire with a spade connector on each end. Then, inserted one end into the socket for pin 30 and the other into 87. Thereby removing the function of the relay and supplying 12v to the clutch. Ignition on and heard a clunk from the ac clutch, so that was working. Started engine and got cold pipes, so the pump system was working.
 

oscar

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mark i've pm'd you regarding wiring diagrams for the air-con system. hopefully you understand how to read wiring diagrams? it will help you out a lot in bridging connections etc, don't worry they give me a bit of a headache too lol. this should at least help you, alongside neils help ^^^^^^^^^ which is a lot less confusing!!!!
 

markhardy

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I nipped into ats on the way home before, they're going to test the system free of charge on Monday. I'll see what they say and take it from there
 

oscar

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mark are you going to the end of year show thing at donnington? if you're still riddled with problems i'll take a look at it for you as i'll have my tools down. i'm going to be doing lukes (LC) cambelt + pump + auxbelt + major service for him anyway :) you too jakey!
 

Hrabroslav

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oscar":25rb7mwq said:
if it's any help mate, there was a boy on here the other day who posted a video and question relating to the same thing. his video showed a clicking nose when he engaged the ac system. that sound stems from the coil engaging the clutch inside the pulley. there could be a few issues here, as neil has hinted at relating to the coil or a possible bad earth. what to do is make sure that you are getting your 12v / 4amp supply to the AC. if this is good, then remove the aux belt and the air con pulley to measure the air gap between the clutch plate and pulley.
renault specifies a gap of 0,85-1,30 within tolerance. anything exceeding this will be the route of your problem mark mate :)

the system will still run, even with a leak. it will just constantly try to achieve pressure but it will never happen. the only way to verify a leak will be to have it re-gassed with a leak check. they'll put a small amount of refrigerent mixed with air and a dye in, and they will watch out for the leak to track it's source should a leak turn out to be the cause of your problems

I later checked few other cars and the clicking noise from my video is normal AC clutch sound. It was just switching it on/off too often. I got my gas pressure checked and refilled but it was already full.

Service guy said problem could be in some connectors or pressure sensor but it has to be checked because that constant switching on/off can't be good for the clutch and compressor.

I first took a look by myself and the problem seemed to be in the pressure sensor connector. I unplugged it and cleaned it and it up to now it wasn't switching on/off like before anymore.
 

markhardy

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So..... There should be around 520 grams of gas, in 7 months the system had dropped to 70!!! They did a uv test and pressure test and everything showed up fine, no leaks. So they've cleaned and regassed it.

It's leaking from somewhere clearly. I expect the same problem to reappear in a few months.

Also what was quiet weird was after the job was complete and they have the car back to me with the engine running, I set off and the power steering was really heavy? I had to turn the car off and on again then it went back to being light again
 
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Anonymous

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Hi all, so I've just bought a facelift 133 and had some money taken off for the AC not blowing cold. I can hear the compressor kick in and the revs drop ever so slightly, so bodes well for the compressor. But I can hear a hissing behind the driver's side dash which is quite loud.
I'm hoping it's just a leaky condenser that's been battered by stone chips. What has everyone else experienced?
 

kviktor

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Hi all, so I've just bought a facelift 133 and had some money taken off for the AC not blowing cold. I can hear the compressor kick in and the revs drop ever so slightly, so bodes well for the compressor. But I can hear a hissing behind the driver's side dash which is quite loud.
I'm hoping it's just a leaky condenser that's been battered by stone chips. What has everyone else experienced?
Hi,
After long time not driving the car, I had the same symptoms.
I also believe it"s leakage so going to have it checked.
What was the outcome in your case?
 
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