DanoKrnac
New member
Hi,
I'm new here, but I'd like to share and idea, that I've recently made into reality. My Twingo Sport only has the Radiosat Classic without bluetooth, so it has the media connection box with 2 cinch aux in connectors which is rather terrible use of space. The better one for the bluetooth radio has the aux in jack and USB for your tunes or charging.
I'm using a bluetooth to aux in converter but that also needs power from usb and I don't really like the cigarette lighter USB thingies, since they tend to be unreliable. So I did this:
1. I've bought an identical spare connection box ( 280230001R )
2. I've unclicked the bottom cover and this PCB with proprietary connector and 2 cinch connectors just slid out. Nice, we'll reuse this later.
3. This is all the stuff that I've used:
- 1x connection box
- 1x OEM pcb with connectors
- 1x 3,5mm female jack and short stereo cable
- 2x male cinch connectors
- 1x orange LED diode (for kind of a backlighting) with and appropriate resitor
- 2x USB-C connectors for panel mounting (these ones are great since the only need a circular hole - drill it and you're done)
- 1x 15W 12v to 5v DC-DC convertor (for powering both USB-Cs together)
4. First, I've soldered a short cable for the jack input
5. After screwing it in I've found, that it fits like a glove in the original hole (but not every type of this connector does - I've tried 3 and only this one with metal casing fit this good)
6. Next, I've enlarged the remaining cinch hole by a tiny bit and made a new hole in the middle of the box to accomodate two USB-C sockets. I've used white ones hoping that they're gonna be more visible at night with less light needed.
7. In between them, I've made a tiny hole for the orange LED to somewhat illuminate the USB-Cs.
8. After modifying the DC-DC converter (ie. chopping some plastic from the bottom of it) it fit neatly inside the original casing. The tape is more than enough to hold it in place.
9. After soldering all of the appropriate cables together I've tucked the end of them inside the bottom of the box. The PCB with the proprietary AUX connector came in handy and I've used it like an adapter.
10 In the car, I've unclicked the plastic surround of the shift boot (just pry with the plastic tool under it and it will come off), then unscrewed two torx screws and slid the bottom of the centre console with audio box towards the end of the car and it clicked off.
11. I've scraped a bit of insulation from the two wires that go the cigarette lighter (yellow +12V and black ground) and soldered an extension cable to them with faston connectors on the end. That way we have a fused circuit that can handle the measily 15W for the charging easily.
12. after checking if everything works and that there is no fire, I've assembled everything back together and that's it.
What I've found later - the diode is WAAY too bright at this moment and shines directly in your face at night, but I'm going to take care of that soo.
Btw, since the USB-C sockets are connected parallel so if you want to charge two phones at once, it's not going to be very fast, but hey, you now have the chance to charge two USB-C phones in your more that decade old (but still wonderful) Twingo
Next stage will be changing the OEM radio for a bluetooth one including the display and trying to make them work via DDT4ALL, and later, hopefully, installing the R.S. monitor. I will try to make a comprehensive tutorial for that.
I'm still waiting for the ELM 237 diagnostic thingy modified for Renaults tho, so wish me luck later
Cheers
I'm new here, but I'd like to share and idea, that I've recently made into reality. My Twingo Sport only has the Radiosat Classic without bluetooth, so it has the media connection box with 2 cinch aux in connectors which is rather terrible use of space. The better one for the bluetooth radio has the aux in jack and USB for your tunes or charging.
I'm using a bluetooth to aux in converter but that also needs power from usb and I don't really like the cigarette lighter USB thingies, since they tend to be unreliable. So I did this:
1. I've bought an identical spare connection box ( 280230001R )
2. I've unclicked the bottom cover and this PCB with proprietary connector and 2 cinch connectors just slid out. Nice, we'll reuse this later.
3. This is all the stuff that I've used:
- 1x connection box
- 1x OEM pcb with connectors
- 1x 3,5mm female jack and short stereo cable
- 2x male cinch connectors
- 1x orange LED diode (for kind of a backlighting) with and appropriate resitor
- 2x USB-C connectors for panel mounting (these ones are great since the only need a circular hole - drill it and you're done)
- 1x 15W 12v to 5v DC-DC convertor (for powering both USB-Cs together)
4. First, I've soldered a short cable for the jack input
5. After screwing it in I've found, that it fits like a glove in the original hole (but not every type of this connector does - I've tried 3 and only this one with metal casing fit this good)
6. Next, I've enlarged the remaining cinch hole by a tiny bit and made a new hole in the middle of the box to accomodate two USB-C sockets. I've used white ones hoping that they're gonna be more visible at night with less light needed.
7. In between them, I've made a tiny hole for the orange LED to somewhat illuminate the USB-Cs.
8. After modifying the DC-DC converter (ie. chopping some plastic from the bottom of it) it fit neatly inside the original casing. The tape is more than enough to hold it in place.
9. After soldering all of the appropriate cables together I've tucked the end of them inside the bottom of the box. The PCB with the proprietary AUX connector came in handy and I've used it like an adapter.
10 In the car, I've unclicked the plastic surround of the shift boot (just pry with the plastic tool under it and it will come off), then unscrewed two torx screws and slid the bottom of the centre console with audio box towards the end of the car and it clicked off.
11. I've scraped a bit of insulation from the two wires that go the cigarette lighter (yellow +12V and black ground) and soldered an extension cable to them with faston connectors on the end. That way we have a fused circuit that can handle the measily 15W for the charging easily.
12. after checking if everything works and that there is no fire, I've assembled everything back together and that's it.
What I've found later - the diode is WAAY too bright at this moment and shines directly in your face at night, but I'm going to take care of that soo.
Btw, since the USB-C sockets are connected parallel so if you want to charge two phones at once, it's not going to be very fast, but hey, you now have the chance to charge two USB-C phones in your more that decade old (but still wonderful) Twingo
Next stage will be changing the OEM radio for a bluetooth one including the display and trying to make them work via DDT4ALL, and later, hopefully, installing the R.S. monitor. I will try to make a comprehensive tutorial for that.
I'm still waiting for the ELM 237 diagnostic thingy modified for Renaults tho, so wish me luck later
Cheers
