oscar
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1 - if you do not have a buzz gun, crack your wheel nuts first and then jack your car up on the optimum jacking point for the front wheels, seen in the picture below. you will need a 17mm socket and breaker bar, although a spider wrench or the oem wheel brace will do just fine if you are built like triple H.
2 - remove wheel bolts and then remove the wheel
3 - if your previous wheels had spigot rings, and you find them stuck to the hub lip don't panic. get a flat head phillips screwdriver and with a small bit of force press in between the spigot ring and once you've got it in, use the hub face on the disc to lever against so that you may push the spigot ring outwards. spin the disc around and repeat until the old ring comes free. skip this step if you are installing spigot rings for the first time
4 - take your spigot ring
place it in the centre bore of your aftermarket wheel and gently tap it into place with whatever you wish, nothing fancy required. the arse end of a screw driver will do just fine
5 - use some emery paper or sand paper (240 - 400 grit will do) to clean up the surface of the hub lip. you only want to remove surface rust so that it feels reasonably smooth, you'll be there for hours if you attempt to remove rust properly so don't bother!
6 - apply some copper grease (anti seize / copper slip ... different names, same thing!) to the hub lip and and to the hub face where the wheel mates against the hub. you don't want a stuck wheel like i did (read the bottom of this how to). also apply copper grease to your wheel bolt threads to prevent them from seizing
7 - put your wheel on, torque your bolts to 105Nm > move onto the other 3 wheels and repeat the process.
when i attempted to remove my rear wheel, the wheel was seized on solid. i am talking scratching my head and completely clueless levels of seized on solid. i attempted just about every technique known ...
a) sledgehammer thud on the tyre each size front and rear > nothing
b) grab the spare wheel and throw it against the seized wheel to act as a dead blow > nothing
c ) rubber mallet ..... well the sledgehammer didn't work so who was i kidding with this?
anyway, i got down to about the letter M on my list and decided enough was enough. most of the guys in my work were stumped and genuinely thought it had welded itself on, i even said yes boys because iron can weld to aluminium can't it? ...dafty's, it was my right rear tyre that was seized. so i took a jack and axle stand up to a quiet car park. loosened the wheel nuts to around half off. hand brake turned with my wheel on full right lock with my wing mirror aimed at the rear right wheel, it popped of nicely > jacked the car up there and then, cleaned the hub lip stuck some copper grease on it and drove back home and continued on.
2 - remove wheel bolts and then remove the wheel
3 - if your previous wheels had spigot rings, and you find them stuck to the hub lip don't panic. get a flat head phillips screwdriver and with a small bit of force press in between the spigot ring and once you've got it in, use the hub face on the disc to lever against so that you may push the spigot ring outwards. spin the disc around and repeat until the old ring comes free. skip this step if you are installing spigot rings for the first time
4 - take your spigot ring
place it in the centre bore of your aftermarket wheel and gently tap it into place with whatever you wish, nothing fancy required. the arse end of a screw driver will do just fine
5 - use some emery paper or sand paper (240 - 400 grit will do) to clean up the surface of the hub lip. you only want to remove surface rust so that it feels reasonably smooth, you'll be there for hours if you attempt to remove rust properly so don't bother!
6 - apply some copper grease (anti seize / copper slip ... different names, same thing!) to the hub lip and and to the hub face where the wheel mates against the hub. you don't want a stuck wheel like i did (read the bottom of this how to). also apply copper grease to your wheel bolt threads to prevent them from seizing
7 - put your wheel on, torque your bolts to 105Nm > move onto the other 3 wheels and repeat the process.
when i attempted to remove my rear wheel, the wheel was seized on solid. i am talking scratching my head and completely clueless levels of seized on solid. i attempted just about every technique known ...
a) sledgehammer thud on the tyre each size front and rear > nothing
b) grab the spare wheel and throw it against the seized wheel to act as a dead blow > nothing
c ) rubber mallet ..... well the sledgehammer didn't work so who was i kidding with this?
anyway, i got down to about the letter M on my list and decided enough was enough. most of the guys in my work were stumped and genuinely thought it had welded itself on, i even said yes boys because iron can weld to aluminium can't it? ...dafty's, it was my right rear tyre that was seized. so i took a jack and axle stand up to a quiet car park. loosened the wheel nuts to around half off. hand brake turned with my wheel on full right lock with my wing mirror aimed at the rear right wheel, it popped of nicely > jacked the car up there and then, cleaned the hub lip stuck some copper grease on it and drove back home and continued on.