Horn not working...

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maggi200

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Here there and another where
Ok I don't need to measure if it's getting power as it works, but ONLY when the lights are off.

Anyone had this? Was it a bad stalk? I'm a little stumped where to look tbh

It would wait for a couple of weeks before it's first MOT :lol:
 
just a bad connection on the wires behind the steering wheel, got to admit this is a strange one even for a renault. make sure the connections are secure at the ebumper and behind the wheel, give them a good clean incase it's a bad earth and then check the connections for resistance and continuity to rule out wether or not they're done for. worst case scenario is you may need a new rotary switch which isn't the end of the world. around 40-60 pounds
 
maggi112":3ukjiz9t said:
Thought you would be the man to answer!

How exactly would I check. I'll admit this is slightly beyond what I've done before I feel

no worries sir! basically get a hold of a multimeter, set it to the lowest resistance setting in -ohms (thats the little horse shoe symbol maggi), take the horns connectors out from the horn itself and positive (red) into one of the pin holes and the negative (black) into the other pin hole and take a reading, repeating for the horn connector which will test the horn itself and then the loom side of the connector which will test the wiring. you should expect to see a couple of hundred ohms in resistance but offcourse i'll get you the exact resistance soon enough when i'm next at an auto-data computer on thursday.

as a rule of thumb, if the readings going up and down all over the place it means the battery in the multimeter is done for. should you get an infinite reading (this shows as a reading of 1) on a multimeter, that indicates that part you are testing is done for and needs replacing. broken wire scenario

the other way to do it is for continuity, set it to volts (lowest setting) -V and then stick the prongs in the connectors, turn the ignition on and beep the horn to test if the loom is getting it's feed of 6/12 Volts. if the connector / loom is feeding the horn the 12 volts when the horns pressed, this shows that the wiring is fine and that the horn module itself is faulty. this one would probably be the easier option mate, but this is a good way to check anything electrical no matter what it is you are testing :) hope i've not slevered on and confused you
 
Ive just has a look at the wiring diagrams and from the "Monolever" stalk to the "Main Electromagmetic Horn" :lol: is a simple orange wire which runs from connection A4 on the switch connector through fuse F38 then changes colour to violet to the horn and then to chassis earth.... So, the horn does work, so its not going to be anything between the switch and the horn.

The rotary "Monolever" has three electrical feeds. Confusingly labled
F21 (20amp)- Horn and lights switch
F25 (5amp)- Horn and lights switch
F15 (5amp)- Horn and lights switch

Looking at the functions of the wires, it looks like F21 is the only one actually feed the horn but I can't be certain how the switch is configured inside and it will take ages to work around the diagrams

Check the three fuses listed above (and F38) are sound, with clean legs and fitted correctly to get a good contact. It takes a fair ammount of power to drive the horn and if some of the current is being limitted by a poor connection....

If that hasn't curred it, pull the fuses that go from the switch to the lights. F32, F33, F34, F35 (added F42 and F43 sidelights). That way, theres not going to be any extra electrical load on the horn curcuit from the lights being lit. So, if the horn still plays up, the fault its very likely to be within the switch or the connector onto the switch
 
I've pulled every fuse in the glove box.
Unfortunately it's not that. I suspect it's in the switch. It's still within warranty so I'm tempted to chuck it at them and ask for their 200 to play around with.
 
In which case, try the fuses in the last paragraph above, then press the hornand then switch on the lights (which won't come on) as they are now disconnected downstream of the switch. If it flunks out, its almost certainly the switch
 
The button for the horn is on the end of the stalk. the switch is somewhere within the stalk, along with the sidelight/dip/mainbeam, foglights switches.

hammer :)
 
maggi112":2xhz4bio said:
That would be grand. But would require the button to be fixed still. Not really a solution :p

No but it's an excuse nonetheless

Plus you'll probably smash the horn with your best tool so will need a replacement ;)
 
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