Will these alloys fit??

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BlackTwingo-i

BlackTwingo-i

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I want these speedline 5 spoke alloys.. They are soooo nice!
They are 195/45/16's but im not sure about the offset and all that!

These are the basic fitting measurements for my car:
PCD – 4x100
Bore – 60.1
Offset - ET29 5.5"x14..

These are the fitting measurements of the speedlines!
"Details of alloy:- 7Jx16 H2 ET16.
PCD:- 4x108
Centre Bore:- 65mm"

The ET, PCD and Bore are all slightly different, would these still fit my car? If so what size spacers should i look for and ive heard i might need a spigot ring for the centre bore?

Hope you guys can help me outtt :)
 
dont think its possible (or reasonable)... PDC is different and the speedlines are 7J with even lower ET, so they would be much more out of arches... But i am sure you could find some speedlines with suitable parameters
 
BlackTwingo-i":1ibjrbt3 said:
I want these speedline 5 spoke alloys.. They are soooo nice!
They are 195/45/16's but im not sure about the offset and all that!

These are the basic fitting measurements for my car:
PCD – 4x100
Bore – 60.1
Offset - ET29 5.5"x14..

These are the fitting measurements of the speedlines!
"Details of alloy:- 7Jx16 H2 ET16.
PCD:- 4x108
Centre Bore:- 65mm"

The ET, PCD and Bore are all slightly different, would these still fit my car? If so what size spacers should i look for and ive heard i might need a spigot ring for the centre bore?

Hope you guys can help me outtt :)
Click to expand...
whilst you can get wheel adaptpters to change the pcd, they actualy space out the wheel by quite a bit. Your new found wheels have already dropped to et16, so they are likely to cock up the handling and stick out the arch in a Carlos Fandango look
 
Haha although that would look cool to an extent it is illegal aint it :( dont want it costing too much to fit them on properly..
So basicly these dont fit my car properly :(??
They are lushhh, so gutted
Thanks though
 
https://www.performancealloys.com/hub-Adaptor-details.aspx?ID=445

H&R adaptors that would do the job. 20mm thickness would effectively leave you with ET-4 instead of your current ET29. Also, the price is for a pair :shock:

So the center line of the new wheel would be 33mm further outboard, with the wheel being wider (7J instead of 5.5J) thats another 3/4" or about 19mm added on each side as well. So the tyre side wall would end up moving outboard somewhere about 51 or 52mm

Time to have a look for some rims that fit
 
I just found some alloys that are the right bore and stud sizes..
They are 17" genuine renault ones.. Off a megane.
They will need spacers but im sure i can sort that out.
Just wondering if they will rub or not? The tyres are 205/55/17 Pretty bigg :/
 
205/55/17 are quite a bit bigger than the RS 133 size of 195/40/17. It is over an inch of extra side wall, so your going to raise the ride height on the tyres but be unable to drop it again with lowering springs as it would definately end up rubbing. Stick the sizes into an online tyre size checker and you will find an 11.8% error in the speedo reading. This increased size will also affect the gearing>> https://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

1 or 2% is usualy fine
5% is a lot but can be ok if theres no issues with rubbing and 0-60 times aren't too important
10%+ is probably stretching it a bit far, if they fit without rubbing.

Did you see Clarkson and Hammonds upgraded wheels on the 4x4's they took across South America?
 
I see! I used the calculator and it said 9.2% which is kind of high i guess. The new alloys are 205/50/17, not 205/55/17.. My error.
I fitted the wheels to the back of the car and they looked great, no rubbing, plenty of room above and to the sides, well in from the arches, Rather close to the shock absorber but i could put a finger inbetween. When i tried to fit them on the front of the car, the part that the spring rests on was kind of in the way so they would not fit onto the hub as the tyres were too wide. There is plenty of room to use spacers and i believe 20mm ones could be fitted and they still wouldnt be out of the wheel arches. My friend suggested that uprated springs and shock absorbers would be slightly thinner so it would not get in the way?
Don't know if thats true but im not jumping into buying anything else to fit these wheels yet!
There is plenty of room above the wheels for me to lower the car, as i was hoping to do so anyway, but what would be the best option?! i got these wheels kinda cheap i think! £300 with brand new pirelli P6000 tyres, no scuffs and everything. I really love them :(
New shocks? Lowering springs? spacers?
Love top gear. Who hasnt seen that one!
 
BlackTwingo-i":e5sl0gjf said:
I fitted the wheels to the back of the car and they looked great, no rubbing, plenty of room above and to the sides, well in from the arches, Rather close to the shock absorber but i could put a finger inbetween.
Click to expand...
Do you have clearance over the full range of travel from on the bumpstop, to fully extended?

BlackTwingo-i":e5sl0gjf said:
When i tried to fit them on the front of the car, the part that the spring rests on was kind of in the way so they would not fit onto the hub as the tyres were too wide. There is plenty of room to use spacers and i believe 20mm ones could be fitted and they still wouldnt be out of the wheel arches. My friend suggested that uprated springs and shock absorbers would be slightly thinner so it would not get in the way?
Don't know if thats true but im not jumping into buying anything else to fit these wheels yet!
There is plenty of room above the wheels for me to lower the car, as i was hoping to do so anyway, but what would be the best option?! i got these wheels kinda cheap i think! £300 with brand new pirelli P6000 tyres, no scuffs and everything. I really love them :(
New shocks? Lowering springs? spacers?
Love top gear. Who hasnt seen that one!
Click to expand...

If the tyre is contacting the spring platform on the shock absorber or the spring, you could work out the distance required to clear it fairly easily instead of guessing 20mm, as spacers are not cheap.

Whats the width and ET measurement of the new wheels?
How much clearance do you have with the originals, from the tyre and suspension strut, but also from tyre to bodywork at full lock?

Having a guess at 7" wide and ET40, the inner edge of the wheel rim would be 30mm further inboard, whilst the outer edge of the wheel rim would be 8mm further outboard. The difference in shape and size of the old and new tyres on the rims may give you a few mm more or less.

You could also use a straight edge and ruler to measure the wheel and clearances from the hub face to strut to confirm


If you do decide to get spacers which are more than a few mm thick, make sure they are hubcentric spacers, as you need to ensure the wheel is supported on the hub spigot, not just the bolts.
 
Im so glad you know your stuff!
Although sadly i have little knowledge of alloys :/ Not quite sure what the full range of travel is, but im 100% sure it doesnt touch anything and even when i went over a bump and the suspension bounced it didnt hit anything or atleast make any wierd noises.

The width of the tyre is 205 and look pretty much inline with the alloys, just had a look on the rear of the alloy and can't seem to see where it says the ET!
On the rear original tyres they are about 30mm away from the strut, and i would say around 10mm with the new wheels.
The front wheel at the front of the tyre at full lock is 80mm away for the body work so im guess it will be the same at the back of the wheel?

Looking by eye and remembering when i had the new alloys on the back, they looked around the same width out from the car or around the same distance in from the arch, maybe a few mm difference like you said.
Not been able to measure anything by the spring platform but i will give it a go when i have abit more time. Also how can i measure it to see how much space is needed? proberbly sounds like a stupid question and just requires abit of common sence but i don't want to be doing anything wrong to cause me wasting money :(
I understand what you mean with the spacers. You mean the ones that when attatched to the car, the wheels slot onto the spacer as if it was the centre hub?

Thanks for the help so far!
 
Offshore at the moment, so internet ussage is a bit limitted, hence no reply earlier.

Yeah, the Hubcentric spacers are ones which slot onto the center of the wheel and have a raised ring for the wheel to slot onto. Thinner spacers 10-15mm come with holes drilled through, for use with longer wheel bolts, whereas thicker (20mm+) spacers bolt onto the hub with special bolts and have seperate threads for the wheel to bolt onto. Spacers less than 5-8mm tend not to be hubcentric, as theres still some of the hub left sticking through for the wheel to slot onto. If theres nothing showing for the wheel to slot onto, the forces will be taken on the wheel bolts. Also, getting the wheel centered on the hub would probably be a nightmare so balancing will be out.

If your not sure where to measure to decide on clearance issues, it's probably safer to seek out a local tyre center or tunners that does upgraded alloys (not just a tyre fitters) and get them to order some suitable spacers. Then, if they are wrong the onus it on them to change them out again.
 
Alright thanks for the help!
Ill take them to a garage that sells alloy wheels not far round the corner in the next few days, see what they can say for them.
If its gonna cost too much i think i might start looking for the RS cup or non cup alloys again! Both are beaut!
Thanks dude
 
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