Car won't start

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Beany-08GT

Beany-08GT

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Hi,

Any help at this stage would be greatly appreciated.. I'm having problems getting the car to turn over!

When I turn the ignition, the engine doesn't start up just grumbles and a loud beeping comes from the central locking button. Then the only signs on the dash that light up are steering wheel, handbrake, seatbelt & STOP.

I have recently fitted an amp into the car, however it's been running fine since that was installed and have had no problems.. The central locking still works as do lights, stereo and everything else electronic just will not start :/

Any hell would be appreciated

Chris
 
did you install the amp etc yourself, and did you crimp or solder any connections at all? it sounds like you've got a parasitic draw somewhere. i've got a very bad one with my DRL's which i need to remove and rectify, if i sit for 30 minutes with my stereo on ... the car won't start and i get the exact same problem as you > bump start it!


so the problems going to be down to the wiring that you done :) something is drawing amperage from the battery, a multimeter is going to be your only friend in this instance. for what it's worth, it's actually good for your battery to constantly be discharged and recharged so you're not doing any harm to it. once your battery reaches a certain voltage your ECU will not allow the car to start to protect itself from self destruction. i believe it's something around 12.2 Volts where the cut off point is
 
Hey guys thanks for your help..

Managed to bump start it and got it to a mates garage.. Multimeter said it was about 13volts... Replaced the battery as a precaution as it was still the OEM one installed.

Yes oscar I installed the amp myself and there was some soldering involved but all wires had been done properly and shrink wrapped. The amp had been installed for over a week and had no problems since.. It's maybe just coincidence! Lol

I'll monitor this new battery and see if I can rule out all options ;)
 
13 volts with the ignition off ? it should be around 12.6 / 12.7 ( 6 cells in the battery, 2.1'ish volts per cell ) what i'd do is check that your voltage regulator on your alternator is operating correctly. multimeter on the battery with the engine running, voltage regulation output should be in the lower end of 14 volts. overcharging is just as bad as undercharging, when the alternator overcharges it will automatically cut the ignition and switch the engine off to protect itself ... even if you are cutting along at 70 on the motorway lol :)

this will be the ECU either having a typical britney spears style breakdown (britney spears fan? deal with it!) or the ECU protecting itself to prevent critical damage. pretty sure it won't be anything major though
 
Haha well I do longish journeys (50miles a day) so the alternator could be the next to check if this battery goes flat! The battery with the engine running was 13.7 volts!!

I'll give it afew more checks over the weekend as it's nice dealing with this kinda stuff for the 1st time :?

:) everybody loves abit of Britney right.. ?
 
13.7 volts is bad bad bad bad bad. mines was 14.2 :) appears that you just had a dud battery which is fair enough. all you will need to do is monitor the condition of the battery, every couple of months check it with a multimeter with the engine off and then the engine running. again should be 12.6 / 12.7 off, 14.2'ish +/- .10 to .20 volts. positive it will have been the battery. if the charge starts to creep down again, you'll know the problem lays with your alternator not charging the battery correctly. you can get an exchange alternator for about 40-50 pounds from a good few places, or if you're savy enough you can replace the voltage regulator on the alternator. not many people do that sort of stuff though ...... folk have lost the skill nowadays ;)


would be funny if your GT broke another battery then started belting out oooooops i did it again! haha
 
Aye it's something I'll keep and eye on and check the voltage! This car loves throwing little electrical problems at me.. :?

:lol: if that were to happen id bring it round for you to fix!!
 
i'd like to see this on the job sheet

customer description of fault : ''the car won't stop singing oops i did it again, by britney spears. you know the one, where she's on mars. ohhhh babbyyy babbbyyy''
 
a short time ago my gt wouldn't start but still had electrics etc, got the AA out, after 45 mins of investigations he found the problem, Fuel pump was dead, got a brand new full unit ordered in from Halfords then a mate from local garage fitted it in his lunch hour for £20. Makes sense really - if you remap the engine, its going to put a strain on any parts not uprated. Hope this helps.
 
flowerpowerdave":2hv218kh said:
a short time ago my gt wouldn't start but still had electrics etc, got the AA out, after 45 mins of investigations he found the problem, Fuel pump was dead, got a brand new full unit ordered in from Halfords then a mate from local garage fitted it in his lunch hour for £20. Makes sense really - if you remap the engine, its going to put a strain on any parts not uprated. Hope this helps.
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don't mean to be the bad guy here, but remaping a car doesn't really cause stress and strain on air / fuelling components. the same fuel pressure is maintained by the FPR, so the fuel pump is strictly pumping the same amount of fuel as before over a tolerated duty cycle to maintain that fuel rail pressure of approximately 40-45 psi. remapping is merely the changing of ignition timing and fuel injection to find the best points for power and economy, you aren't actually making the fuel pump work too much harder. the twingo gt fuel pump has been used in 1.8L lagunas and scenics without much problems :)
 
no probs, just a thought, don't know much about tech side. Maybe not the fuel pump, maybe yes the fuel pump.
 
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