Changing brake pads

[Monster Detail]

I'm changing my brake pads as we speak. I've removed the bolts that hold the caliper on, but whilst the caliper is now loose, it just won't come off.

It feels like there's a clip or spring right in the middle of the caliper that is stopping it from coming off.

When I've changed pads on other cars, the caliper has always just come straight off at this stage. Any ideas please?

 

[singlespeed]

Guessing its the front ones. I haven't done the Twingo discs or pads yet, but from experience with other makes, the inner pad may have a clip on the back of it which goes inside the caliper piston.

Have you tried levering the pads appart, so they can clear the lup which will have formed around the edge of the disc. Also, the pads may be slightly stuck on the carrier

 

[Monster Detail]

Not to worry. I've got it off. It was just incredibly stiff.

 

[Monster Detail]

Guessing its the front ones. I haven't done the Twingo discs or pads yet, but from experience with other makes, the inner pad may have a clip on the back of it which goes inside the caliper piston.

Have you tried levering the pads appart, so they can clear the lup which will have formed around the edge of the disc. Also, the pads may be slightly stuck on the carrier

This was pretty much the problem. Thanks for your help.

The next problem is how do I make the gap big enough for the new (much thicker) pads to fit? Do I need to clamp the piston or something?

 

[Munson001]

Take the cap off the brake fluid bottle as it makes it easy to push the pistons back in..
I use a G clamp..

 

[singlespeed]

^^^ What he said

Make sure the pads are free to slide back and forth in the carrier, as if they are too tight fit they may end up binding on in the future.

Pushing the piston back with a g-clamp or something simillar is ideal.
Otherwise, slowly lever it back with a bar or hammer handle... Temporarily bolting it back on may help, but avoid damaging the disc and be carefull of the piston seal

 

[Monster Detail]

Thanks for all of your help, guys. I can't find my g clamp anywhere

Singlespeed, would you be able to elaborate on the hammer handle suggestion at all?

 

[lgonzalez]

One way if you haven't got a g-clamp or some large sized water pump pliers is to put the old pad back into the calliper then use a large screwdriver and put it through the hole in the side of the calliper and use it to lever against the pad to push the piston back to its stop...hope this makes sense :-/

 

[singlespeed]

If you can position the caliper so you can press against it, just push back the piston with a hammer, positioning the handle in the piston.

Alternatively fit the inner pad only, and temporarily refit the caliper. then you now have a gap between the disc and caliper which you can get a lever between to open up the gap and push back the piston. A bit of card on the disc surface if you lever against it should prevent scratching the face. Obviously you don't want to scrape the disc surface or anything which using a srewdriver between the old pads and disc could do . Slow and steady.

But, idealy a g-clamp or big pliers

 

[Monster Detail]

Again, thanks for your help.

I've managed to compress the caliper using the hammer method! although I'd definitely recommend using a g clamp.

I've now put the pads in and re-fitted the bolts as tight as they'll go. When compressing the piston, I left a small amount of space for the pads to move slightly, as suggested.

This should be my final question: before re-fitting the retaining spring, the calliper is slightly loose. I'd imagine when I fit the retaining spring, it will tighten it, but I just wanted to check if that this is ok or if there should be no movement before fitting the spring?

 

[singlespeed]

I've now put the pads in and re-fitted the bolts as tight as they'll go

technical-and-paint-information/twingo-renaultsport-maintenace-t371.html
the guide pins/slider bolts (7mm allen key to undo) are only 35Nm, so thats not massively tight (bearing in mind wheel bolts are onlt 105Nm). All they do is hold the caliper in position and allow it to slide to and fro. The main loads from braking are felt by the pad carrier/caliper support bracket which is held onto the hub assembly by two larger bolts torqued to 100Nm

This should be my final question: before re-fitting the retaining spring, the calliper is slightly loose. I'd imagine when I fit the retaining spring, it will tighten it, but I just wanted to check if that this is ok or if there should be no movement before fitting the spring?

The caliper slides along the guide pins on rubber bushes, so theres bound to be some movement . The retaining spring stops it wobbling about

 

[Monster Detail]

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know.