Changing front discs/pads

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Monster Detail

Monster Detail

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I was planning to just change my 133's front brake pads, which is fairly straightforward, but I've now decided to change the discs as well as they'll probably need doing soon anyway.

I've replaced pads and discs before on other cars without too much difficulty, but it's probably going to be slightly harder this time without a Haynes manual.

Could someone please write a quick 133-specific guide to changing the front pads/discs?

Thanks
 
Basicaly the same as doing the pads, except:-

Remove the screw (if fitted) which holds the disc in place on the hub. This doesn't do much, except keep the disc in place when the wheel bolts are off, so no major hardship if the head has snapped off or you need to drill it out

Remove disc if possible***

***The caliper/pad carrier bracket will probably have to come off as well (some cars you can get the disc off without doing so, but its odds on the new one won't fit back in). If so, thats the two bolts (probably around 17mm head) that hold the bracket onto the bottom of the upright.


Clean up the mating surfaces where the disc sits on the hub, as any trapped dirt or rusty spots could leave the disc running out off true.

Use a brake cleaner spray to remove any oily protection film from the disc, as it would contaminate the pads. That should leave the brake surface area clean and dry. Although, some discs now come with a sprayed on dry film protection which should be treated as per the instructions. Clean off any greasy finger prints

I'm not sure if the bracket bolts are stretch type bolts, which should be replaced and torqued up (maybe Karl can answer). Its often over looked and before now, I've re-used bolts and added a dab of thread lock.

Refit the pads and caliper.
 
Thanks again, singlespeed. That's excellent.

It would be great if someone could confirm the situation with the bracket bolts.
 
I just put thread lock on mine & I've had no problems .. ( it's been over a year now )
As for the pads if there only a few months old they will be ok with new discs . Just clean the surface with some ruff grade sandpaper .
I replaced my rear pads a few months back then changed the discs 2 weeks ago with no problems..
 
^^ Yeah, unless your current discs are majorly grooved, with a sheet of 80-120 grit paper on a flat surface. A light rub should easily take off any high spots, with light pressure.

Then, allow them to bed in again.
 
Thanks for your help, guys.

The discs came quicker than expected, so I'm going to try and get them done this evening.

I'll post in this thread if I come across any difficulties.
 
Monster the rears are easy to change but you will need a piston winding tool for the piston.
Can be done other ways but is a pain . Took me an hour to wind one in as it was seized ( & that was with the right tool )
Make sure you get new hub nuts as they are nilock ones .. & toque to 175nm..
 
Thanks for that info.

I'm just doing the fronts for now because the rears are much less worn.

I'll definitely get the piston winding tool if/when I do the rears.

Do you know what size the nuts are?
 
Have u got a long bar you could put on the end of your spanner / socket wrench to give yourself a bit more leverage?
 
There is only 2 7mm Allen key bolts that hold the calliper on and the spring retaining clip as I just done mine to night at work lol
 
davey, I ended up doing exactly that and the bolts eventually came off.

poweller, I think you're thinking of the outer part of the caliper (to change the pads only). I needed to remove the whole caliper assembly to remove the discs as well.
 
I've now removed the whole caliper assembly, and I've removed the two small screws in the disc, but I just can't get the disc off. I've even hit it with a hammer.

Is there definitely nothing else that could be holding the disc on? If I've definitely done everything, it's probably just corroded so I'll just try and use a bit more force.
 
Monster Detail":1ioo6xpr said:
I've now removed the whole caliper assembly, and I've removed the two small screws in the disc, but I just can't get the disc off. I've even hit it with a hammer.

Is there definitely nothing else that could be holding the disc on? If I've definitely done everything, it's probably just corroded so I'll just try and use a bit more force.
Click to expand...
Wheres Maggi :mrgreen:
 
Get a rubber mallet and hit it 12 o'clock, 3, 6, 9...over and over.
Might need a little WD40 in the gap where the disc meets the boss of the hub :)

Just a little patience :)
(that said, mine were only on for 21k miles :p)
 
In the absence of Maggi suggesting a big hammer, clean around the hub area (the bit that sticks through the disc for the wheel to sit on) and scrape off any rust where the disc seats on the hub. WD40 it and have and a cup of tea

I know on some early Fiestas, the hub was the same size diameter as the inner diameter of the disc bell. After several years of rust, a sledge hammer wouldn't move it and chunks of the disc had broken off. So, we resorted to chain drilling the disc and removing it as two halves.
 
I got this all sorted quite quickly in the end. Thanks for everyone's advice - it was spot on.

I used a rubber mallet on the disc and it eventually came off, although it did take 5-10 minutes of constant hitting at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock etc, as Matt suggested.

Once I'd done one, the other took no time at all. It's so much easier to do a job once you've done it and know exactly what to do.
 
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