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Mr_Ben

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Might as well start one....

So much for having a quiet month...... :|

So far spent £120 in 3 days on bits (most of which at the Autosports show today).

And to top it off got a puncture too so that's gonna be another £110 down the drain....

I won't bore you with a pic of it as you all know what a White and Black Cup looks like :lol:

I'll keep this a placeholder (so to speak), and will update accordingly.
 
Right well seeing that Panda is now out of warranty it'd be rude not to start improving her...

So I've been spending....

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Plus I've been busy doing this.....

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The manifold location is awful for heat soak...

Oh and these (had them since Jan '12 :oops: )

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Still got another addition to come which hopefully be arriving tomorrow :)

Just need to get over to my friends place to fit them all ready for Combe action day.
 
MovingShadow":q3zf8qyq said:
Looking good!

Can't believe you waited so long with updates :shock:
Exactly. I think warranties trap people into not doing stuff for fear of something breaking and not being covered. Then they do mods, quite often followed by selling up for something newer and the cycle starts over :?
 
True, but I can see me keeping this for a few years. I just didn't trust my local dealer not to blame any mods when stuff that has gone wrong on it.
 
Plus it was down to time and money, those two evils when it comes to modding!!! :lol:
 
Mr_Ben":2x3zzifj said:
Right well seeing that Panda is now out of warranty it'd be rude not to start improving her...


Plus I've been busy doing this.....

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The manifold location is awful for heat soak...
.

I was planing to do the same on my manifodl
but I realize that most of the heat came from the contact from the engine

after the heat goes goes through all the metal part
I a way it help top cool down the top head

so I'm wonder if it's worth it
maybe it can even retain more heat in the manifold ...

difficult to determine
 
mazmaz":zagdioe8 said:
but I realize that most of the heat came from the contact from the engine

after the heat goes goes through all the metal part
I a way it help top cool down the top head


Got a fix for that too, but not going to share it just yet on here.... ;)
 
you're not going to do something crazy like water cool the manifold are you? go on, get it done lol. cool it with a cold carling :D
 
it's possible to helps to isolate the manyfold from the top head but not sure it's good idea

personnaly i'm thinking about a solution to had extra dissipation capacity to the manifold
and had thermal barrière also ( a bit like yours)
 
I had thought about insulating the inlet, but decided it would probably be of little benefit

At 6000rpm, (100revs per second) that's 50 intake cycles per second
Being 1.6L, that's somewhere 80litres (Maybe a bit more or less depending on the efficiency) of air per second flowing through the inlet unless my maths is all wrong.
Maybe the inlet manifolds will hold 6litres of air :? If so, that's 13.33 air changes per second.

As its not flowing through a heat exchanger matrix like an intercooler which has a large surface area per volume, there's only the limited surface area to conduct the heat and not much time for the air to take on the heat. Hence not bothering.


Now, thermal coating/wrapping the exhaust manifold I would agree with, as that will help the exhaust work better and also reduce the engine bay temp, so may have some influence on inlet temp also, but as above, probably not much.
 
good old heat soak.

it seems to be something a lot of people don't understand, simply wrapping something in aluminium insulation foil won't solve the problem of heat soak as the majority of the heat actually comes from the cylinder head. for example, turn your engine off after a spirited drive and once the water pumps stopped spinning your engine temperatures will dramatically rise as the heat is radiated from the coolant that isn't being cooled through to the cylinder head and engine block. in this short time that it takes to stop your engine, open the bonnet and touch your manifold, the temperature has actually increased by a sizeable sum due to heat soak. modern cars are governed by the MAP and coolant temperature sensor. ICE engines are horribly inefficient. 75% of the usable energy from every litre of petrol is wasted as heat, you're lucky to see 25% efficiency out of your engine.

when your cars running at speed, a vacuum is created with the difference in pressure (due to the difference in temperature between the colder air rushing under the car and the warmer air already circulating in the engine bay) where the hot air is sucked down and out under the engine and is replaced with cooler air through the nose in a constant cycle. as neil said, the best thing would be to insulate the exhaust manifold to try and keep as much heat in as possible, but that's only really used in real race cars and it's not anything to do with efficiency. it's to do with the prevention of engine fires. if you get coolant that overheats and the pressure overcomes a hose and bursts it, the coolant has a flash point of around 500-800 degrees (cant remember of the top of my head) so when it hits the exhaust manifold it will ignite. thermodynamics is possibly something to look further into if you want to understand heat soak a bit better :)
 
I know all this but part two of heat soak management hasn't been posted because it hasn't been made yet I'm currently in talks.

As for wrapping the exhaust that actually induces cracking and failure more as it doesn't allow the metal to cool correctly. So if anything I'd get it sprayed ( as Neil said thermal coating) but only if I was going to change the manifold, which I'm not just yet... but yes it would reduce bay temps more.
 
Well my tyres went on for Combe and performed well.

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And as a reward I got these..... All thanks to a cone :D

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Just need to whack the other stuff on now ready for The 'Ring :twisted:
 
Whiteline anti roll bar
KAM Racing top mount
Hel Brake lines
DS2500 pads (not pictured)
 
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