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Brad133

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I think my driver side driveshaft is on the way out because it knocks like crazy but now when braking and turning left my traction control kicks in a cuts power.
Any ideas?

Thank you
 
outer cv joint has lost it's moldydenum grease over time, this will cause metal on metal wear fatigue. clearances in the rzeppa joint (outer cv joint, at the hub side of the d/shaft) become excessive and begin to make a knocking noise. if left for long enough, the clearances between the cage, hub and housing can become so excessive that when cornering there will be a minuscule difference in wheel speed which your abs (traction control) ecm will pick up on and kick in the traction control.

the only thing to do will be to get a new driveshaft, unless you can source an outer cv joint kit for your driveshaft which may or may not work out cheaper dude

although this is universal, the theory is still the same should you wish to pop the driveshaft out yourself and replace it. you'll only require basic tools + transmission fluid!
how/outer-joint-stripdown-gator-replacement-t11682.html
 
oscar":1e8srtup said:
outer cv joint has lost it's moldydenum grease over time, this will cause metal on metal wear fatigue. clearances in the rzeppa joint (outer cv joint, at the hub side of the d/shaft) become excessive and begin to make a knocking noise. if left for long enough, the clearances between the cage, hub and housing can become so excessive that when cornering there will be a minuscule difference in wheel speed which your abs (traction control) ecm will pick up on and kick in the traction control.

the only thing to do will be to get a new driveshaft, unless you can source an outer cv joint kit for your driveshaft which may or may not work out cheaper dude
Thank you mate, you are an absolute babe
 
sorry i couldn't be arsed to give you that sort of answer on kik. my fat fingers fell out with my touchscreen phone haha.... well at least i'm honest sir ;p

glad you posted on here so that i could answer you properly with the laptop. if you contact adam @ wolverhampton renault, he'll be able to price you for an expensive oem replacement shaft. if the price makes you cry, pm me or kik me and i'll sort you out with an aftermarket drive shaft posted for cheaper (same company that makes ford / fiat driveshafts) couldn't tell you a price but i could tomorrow :)
 
oscar":2jrgvdgj said:
sorry i couldn't be arsed to give you that sort of answer on kik. my fat fingers fell out with my touchscreen phone haha.... well at least i'm honest sir ;p

glad you posted on here so that i could answer you properly with the laptop. if you contact adam @ wolverhampton renault, he'll be able to price you for an expensive oem replacement shaft. if the price makes you cry, pm me or kik me and i'll sort you out with an aftermarket drive shaft posted for cheaper (same company that makes ford / fiat driveshafts) couldn't tell you a price but i could tomorrow :)
Thank you kind sir, what are the chances of me re-greasing it?
 
no chance now that it's knocking. if you catch the burst gator in the first few days it's usually fine to repair. no harm in trying though as it'll only be less than a tenner for a gator kit on flea-bay :D
 
oscar":ijc04db8 said:
no chance now that it's knocking. if you catch the burst gator in the first few days it's usually fine to repair. no harm in trying though as it'll only be less than a tenner for a gator kit on flea-bay :D
The gator is fine mate it's just jubilee clipped on no metal band
 
caged bearings inside the CV joint are surrounded by grease which is held in by a rubber boot (called a CV Boot). Often the boot fails--gets torn or worn out from use--and the grease either gets contaminated with dirt or escapes. In either case, the lack of grease, or contamination of grease causes the bearings to wear out, and as they do they no longer perform the job they were designed to do, and they begin to "knock" when you are going around turns because the CV-Joint begins to bind instead of rotating smoothly.

personally i've got to agree with that one mate, one it's started to knock that's it gone. i've tried plenty of times to save them but the knock turns into a quieter click with greasing
 
oscar":1ydgj985 said:
caged bearings inside the CV joint are surrounded by grease which is held in by a rubber boot (called a CV Boot). Often the boot fails--gets torn or worn out from use--and the grease either gets contaminated with dirt or escapes. In either case, the lack of grease, or contamination of grease causes the bearings to wear out, and as they do they no longer perform the job they were designed to do, and they begin to "knock" when you are going around turns because the CV-Joint begins to bind instead of rotating smoothly.

personally i've got to agree with that one mate, one it's started to knock that's it gone. i've tried plenty of times to save them but the knock turns into a quieter click with greasing
A quiter click is better than a knock haha
 
I'd investigate a bit more before plumping straight for a drive shaft. Would a worn CV joint be noticeable under braking?

Its a 133, so definitely check out the wishbone ball joint :lol:
Also, check the bolts on the wishbone to subframe and upright to damper
Wheel bearing check for play.
 
aye this is true mate haha, but going 70 along the motorway and BANG your driveshafts sheered off, veering the car quite violently to one side. no traction control because there is no drive ... i really wouldn't feel comfortable with recommending re greasing but i suppose you could pop the driveshaft at 5mph :)

certainly not a risk i'd ever take on my own car and i know neil would absolutely give you a big neil slap too! as neil said, i'm assuming you've already checked the above? at slow speeds for safety, a quick stab on the brakes would result in the knocking noise appearing due to the momentum shift. get it jacked up and investigate mr ball joint

either way, that ball joint or the cv ball bearings .... what a ball ache haha
 
oscar":2kp4h8d0 said:
aye this is true mate haha, but going 70 along the motorway and BANG your driveshafts sheered off, veering the car quite violently to one side. no traction control because there is no drive ... i really wouldn't feel comfortable with recommending re greasing but i suppose you could pop the driveshaft at 5mph :)

certainly not a risk i'd ever take on my own car and i know neil would absolutely give you a big neil slap too! as neil said, i'm assuming you've already checked the above? at slow speeds for safety, a quick stab on the brakes would result in the knocking noise appearing due to the momentum shift. get it jacked up and investigate mr ball joint

either way, that ball joint or the cv ball bearings .... what a ball ache haha
I'm pretty sure it's the cv joint as I've had a look
 
i remember you mentioned one side had excessive movement and the other one was solid as normal so i'd agree that it's the cv joint itself or am i making this up? hmmm lol.

there isn't a way to repair this, with no lubrication the ball bearings grind on the housing and through friction wear away both the cv housing and the ball bearings themselves. the clearance gap that develops is what makes the knocking noise, if you imagine they are only supposed to move up and down inside a precisely sized slotted section of the cv housing ... now that they have worn away the housing and themselves, there is now a slight scope to move backwards and forwards instead of up and down ... i don't know if that makes any sense? in other words it's definitely wayne rooney'd in the sense that no matter how how you try to fix it ; it's always going to be shite :p
 
oscar":1fw2w7oq said:
i remember you mentioned one side had excessive movement and the other one was solid as normal so i'd agree that it's the cv joint itself or am i making this up? hmmm lol.

there isn't a way to repair this, with no lubrication the ball bearings grind on the housing and through friction wear away both the cv housing and the ball bearings themselves. the clearance gap that develops is what makes the knocking noise, if you imagine they are only supposed to move up and down inside a precisely sized slotted section of the cv housing ... now that they have worn away the housing and themselves, there is now a slight scope to move backwards and forwards instead of up and down ... i don't know if that makes any sense? in other words it's definitely wayne rooney'd in the sense that no matter how how you try to fix it ; it's always going to be shite :p
I get it haha, I should had it isn't dry there is still some grease in there though
 
Brad133":1t0czbsx said:
oscar":1t0czbsx said:
no chance now that it's knocking. if you catch the burst gator in the first few days it's usually fine to repair. no harm in trying though as it'll only be less than a tenner for a gator kit on flea-bay :D
The gator is fine mate it's just jubilee clipped on no metal band
Jubilee clipped, as in a band clamp with a screw to tighten it?
cljuboo1234zp.jpg

If so, someone has already been in there as that's not the original type of band. So, the bodge in n scarper deed may have already been done
 
singlespeed":2oorb2fp said:
Brad133":2oorb2fp said:
oscar":2oorb2fp said:
no chance now that it's knocking. if you catch the burst gator in the first few days it's usually fine to repair. no harm in trying though as it'll only be less than a tenner for a gator kit on flea-bay :D
The gator is fine mate it's just jubilee clipped on no metal band
Jubilee clipped, as in a band clamp with a screw to tighten it?
cljuboo1234zp.jpg

If so, someone has already been in there as that's not the original type of band. So, the bodge in n scarper deed may have already been done
That's the clip yeah and I put it in there as the metal band popped
 
even a good old zip tie does the job just fine for a couple of years before it get brittle and poos itself
 
Bit a sparky tape fixes anything, the most used thing in my line of work
 
imagine trying to peel that off though if it get's covered in grease. your fingers will be diving all over the place like the honduran national team haha
 
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