Madeno could make a series of bigger brakes with 4-pot!

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*Al, where are you? big brake topic and your not here! *

save your self some cash, e-bay Pug 406 4-pots, needs new braided lines and maybe mounting. done, sorted, save cash, dont need new discs etc :)
 
Could be nice, even nicer if it would be with all the parts ready for simple installation... Like they used to do with Porsche calipers for VW brakes...
 
just buy wilwoods for clio. they work with stock sized disc. work under 15". not massive so they dont put as much pressure as other bigger 4 pots but just a bit more then stock over more surface area. may even bolt straight on since 133 uses clio hub parts or need a small extended bracket made with a slightly longer braided line.

could even use clio 300mm two piece disc which would fit ( as aftermarket discs we have now on 133 are 182 products) but need mounting extended for calip. it would deal with heat greatly compared to stock 280mm and a one piece made disc.

i was in 4 pot camp until changing disc/pads and putting proper racing braid fluid and not really bothered or need 4 pots. only thing id do now is uprate rear as even EBC Red Stuff has eaten it to MOT failure. hoping aftermarket 1.6 meggie disc without bearing/abs clips does the trick
 
True look at Yotahs and Al setup they haven't seen the need to.
 
Mr_Ben":22q2xmkj said:
True look at Yotahs and Al setup they haven't seen the need to.
Exactly. And the point that the R2 uses the same setup just diffrent pads etc doesnt that say something. :roll:
 
and some cold air feeds.

have you changed you brake fluid yet? most likely the first upgrade you should do. expensive a year mind. Castrol SRF costs me £100 every year but very hard to boil on stock set up
 
Ollie133cup":1wwq3a1d said:
Mr_Ben":1wwq3a1d said:
True look at Yotahs and Al setup they haven't seen the need to.
Exactly. And the point that the R2 uses the same setup just diffrent pads etc doesnt that say something. :roll:

That's also because of rules and costs... R classes are part Gp A part Gp N...
 
frediiii":2elcr0tq said:
the 133 stock brakes don't suffer from missing clamping power. step on the brakes at 140mph and you can easily trigger the ESP... so enough clamping power to lock the wheels at top speed.

in fact, the 133 brake setups only drawback is consistency... just gets too hot on continuous hard braking.

+1
 
frediiii":6g4qcy5n said:
the 133 stock brakes don't suffer from missing clamping power. step on the brakes at 140mph and you can easily trigger the ESP... so enough clamping power to lock the wheels at top speed.

in fact, the 133 brake setups only drawback is consistency... just gets too hot on continuous hard braking.

Isn't that the whole point of bigger brakes (either with 4-pot or normal calipers)? Better heat dissipation? Isn't that also the reason todays sports- and super cars have massive brakes in comparison with 15 years ago? Without the need for pads that only work when warm of hot? Locking the wheels at top speed isn't the only way to determine brakes are good I suppose...

I do like the brake pressure and resistance at this moment and I am also not in technical need for bigger brakes. But if bigger brakes will be on the shortlist I do want to make sure that the mastercilinder and ABS are matched to each other, because I don't want to ruin the feel of a modern car (I don't want to stamp the pedal with great force like in the old days).
 
dont forget super cars now weight pretty high easily coming near the two ton mark in some models. weight and momentum needing greater force to resist it.

best thing would be 2 piece (bell) 300mm discs if your worried about heat that'll still work with standard pad sizing and uprated brake fluid. there are small 4 pots out there like wilwoods clio ones that'll work for 15" or the 406 larger brembo's that'll work on are sized disc. cheaper then getting a custom set made that might not sell right. i spoke to Hi-Tech. they would use their clio mk2 ones but make a bracket to allow their calip to work with stock sized discs.

also yo'd need a bias valve to sort of the braking ratio of the front/backs. not sure how that would work/be set up though but im guessing a lot of work
 
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