So this happened

[singlespeed]

Check its going to fit and also, how long the pipe is should you need/want to replace it, before aimlesly chopping into the pipe

 

[LCplParks]

Check its going to fit and also, how long the pipe is should you need/want to replace it, before aimlesly chopping into the pipe

Yeah haha I'm gonna have a look tomorrow at lunch and figure it all out it'll probably need replacing at some point anyway so it'll come in handy to know what I'll need to replace it anyway

 

[GhostZ]

i would say good luck with it is this a dry system or wet system ?
i am looking forward to the results , only thing i would say play it safe so you dont break things to fast

 

[LCplParks]

i would say good luck with it is this a dry system or wet system ?
i am looking forward to the results , only thing i would say play it safe so you dont break things to fast

It's a wet system dude so it's got two solenoids the nitrous one and the fuel one

And so am I! I'm only going with a 50 shot (initially) which should hopefully deliver about 25bhp give or take which shouldn't cause the little twingo too many issues

Hoping to up the game later on if all goes well and go for a 100 shot which should deliver about 50bhp but I'm going to need a progressive controller before that otherwise it'll be far too lairy and the engine might take a beating

 

[singlespeed]

i would say good luck with it is this a dry system or wet system ?
i am looking forward to the results , only thing i would say play it safe so you dont break things to fast

It's a wet system, with pulsoids for liquid nitrous and also fuel. Metering jets can be screwed into the pulsoids to regulate the flow of each which effectively sets the power increase and if jetted correctly it shouldn't run lean.

With an additional controller, the pulsoids can be controlled by pulse width modulation.


Joe. If you haven't already got the latest spec triple electrode spark plugs fitted, which are a higher heat range than previous, I'd be looking at some capable of taking a bit more heat

 

[Araf]

Very nice. Do you have the other trainer to match, and can we see a picture of both of them together?


BTW, the NOs kit looks good too.

 

[LCplParks]

Very nice. Do you have the other trainer to match, and can we see a picture of both of them together?


BTW, the NOs kit looks good too.

Haha they are nice trainers but the nitrous gets me a little more excited haha!

And Neil that's probably a good idea I'll have to look into that are they new spec Renault ones or something then?

 

[apostolis]

nice ....

 

[133_Ads]

This is extremely awesome but surely dangerous with it being Joe?!

 

[singlespeed]

This is extremely awesome but surely dangerous with it being Joe?!

:lol:

And Neil that's probably a good idea I'll have to look into that are they new spec Renault ones or something then?

Yes Joe. The current spec for the spark plugs increased the heat range from the original ones. Although thinking now, they may be less appropriate because they are now triple electrode plugs.. The three electrodes are likely to be thinner and therefore become hotter quicker than a single electrode. Maybe email NGK with the old and new numbers and mention going nitrous... In sure they car recommend a suitable and safe plug.

Someone has tried the alternative R2 plug, which I think has an 8 heat range (so higher than the new triple electrode ones) also, it doesn't have any electrode. Having a search for the post...

 

[LCplParks]

This is extremely awesome but surely dangerous with it being Joe?!

Haha probably you only truly know you're alive when you're close to death haha I kid although I sense a surprising lack of faith!

 

[LCplParks]

Also as for progress the bottle is fitted and I've ran the nitrous line to the engine bay

 

[oscar]

My RS have NGK R6601-9 (Same as Twingo R2) and works fine.

The R1 rally motors still use the same 8200492426 plug as recomended for the road cars

The R2 (option) plug is the -9, which as Oliver says is a very cold plug. Theres hardly any of the center electrode exposed to the hot combustion gasses, so much so theres no need for an outer electrode. So, it can tolerate a much higher temperature which may be found in a higher performance 160-190Hp R2 or R2Evo. The problem with running them in a relatively standard engine is a plug needs to get hot enough to allow deposits to burn off and prevent the plug from fouling.

this it neil?

 

[singlespeed]

That's the post(s) I was thinking of

 

[133_Ads]

Also as for progress the bottle is fitted and I've ran the nitrous line to the engine bay

Sh*t just got real and even more dangerous :| get on with it Joe! You getting it mapped after?

 

[waitey]

Also as for progress the bottle is fitted and I've ran the nitrous line to the engine bay

Sh*t just got real and even more dangerous :| get on with it Joe! You getting it mapped after?

Knowing joe i would say his next 3 mods are: coilovers, half cage and ITBs

 

[LCplParks]

That's the post(s) I was thinking of

I think I'll get some of those once I start using it on the the road (more frequently) otherwise wouldn't I run into trouble with them? Because normally I'm only running 135bhp and the plugs only really work with 160+

 

[LCplParks]

Also as for progress the bottle is fitted and I've ran the nitrous line to the engine bay

Sh*t just got real and even more dangerous :| get on with it Joe! You getting it mapped after?

Knowing joe i would say his next 3 mods are: coilovers, half cage and ITBs

As for getting it mapped I'm not going to bother initially until I maybe do something else to her because there's no real need to map it for the nitrous it's all controlled by itself
And Waitey the only issue with itbs would be that with the 100 shot of nitrous and itbs i think I'd be running a bit too much power and then I'd have to start looking at replacing internals :/

Next mods are:
1)coilies
2)brakes
3)progressive controller and new metering jets for the nitrous kit

 

[sharpy36]

What sort of boost will this give? 0 - 60 etc..... you will shock a few faster cars.

 

[singlespeed]

That's the post(s) I was thinking of

I think I'll get some of those once I start using it on the the road (more frequently) otherwise wouldn't I run into trouble with them? Because normally I'm only running 135bhp and the plugs only really work with 160+

Its not to do with the power. Well, it is in a round about way.
Obviously its a harsh environment for a spark plug, kind of warm with toxic gasses and other shit going about, then getting doused in petrol and being expected to efficiently strike an arc to ignite the petroleum.....

An engine producing xxxhp will have a maximum temperature that the gasses reach. So you should be able to select a plug with the correct heat range. Higher power will probably (but not definitely) be with higher cylinder temps.

-8, -9, -10 plugs have a hotter heat range, as the tip runs cooler, from having less of the tip exposed to the hot gasses. If its too cool, deposits start to build up on the insulation around the tip, carbon from the unburnt fuel and other deposits from the fuel additives. This build up will lower the resistance between the center electrode and the outer electrode(s), leading to a weaker spark. Weaker spark probably won't ignite the fuel mix as well as it should, leading to rough running.

With a cooler rating plug (-6, -7) the tip is more exposed, allowing it to get hotter. Great for burning off the combustion deposits but the insulation can crack, or the tip becomes so hot that it acts like a glow plug. If the tip is hot enough to ignite the fuel before intended, the mixture will be well burnt and extremely hot whilst the piston is still on the compression stroke. Melted pistons anyone!


The plugs in the 133 were originally -6 and are now specced as -7. Obviously someone thought the heat range needed upping.
The -9 plugs from the R2 may foul up on a standard car, but not having skinny electrodes to get glowing hot, there a safer much safer bet...