Twingo rs DECAT

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bryan06

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Hi, i want to optimize my twingo rs and have the idea to clear out the original manifold because the ktec manifold is too expansive, is anyone do this ? and what do you think about horse power gain and the noise ( metalic ) ? i have already cat back system from the R1 twingo. thanks

sorry for my english i'm french ^^
 
sounds like a good idea. you'd free up the last reatriction in the system perhaps. i'm not so sure if you'd gain any HP due to the shape of the stock exhaust manifold, it's not an optimal shape and length for power so in my ppinion if you want some gains then going for the ktec manifold is a better option as the headers are an ideal shape for power and mid range torque!
 
ok thanks for your answer, what others things can i do for increase power ? i have already a JR filter in the original airbox, change for induction kit ?
 
an induction kit will change the noise your engine makes, but it won't increase airflow. if we were being strict, an air filter no matter what kind of set up it's on will not change how much air is sucked into the engine, only cams or forced induction can alter this if we keep it strict :)

with a naturally aspirated engine like yours, you'll need to spend thousands and thousands before you get a fair horse power increase. for example neil's (singlespeed, owner of this forum) gordini has ATE power individual throttle bodies, cams as well as standalone management and he's at around 160bhp. realistically if he hadn't done most of the work himself, that sort of thing would have cost him about 2.5 - 3 grand including parts and labour, just to achieve 30 bhp.

i think everyone would agree that the best thing you can do to a 133 is to enjoy it for what it is, and spend your time perfecting the suspension and geometry set up as well as customising the aesthetics of the car to make it as sexy as you can in your eyes! :)
 
Whatever you do, DO NOT smash the cat material out of the original manifold :?
That would leave a large volume expansion chamber where the four header pipes meet. This would slow down the gasses at the point where a faster flow would be better which will undoubtedly give a bad flat spot at low to mid range, which would be worse than any top end gains (if there were any)

I'm biased, so maybe Chicken or MadMatt can say if my motor is any good...
 
Don't buy a n/a car if you want to increase your bhp - it costs too much. Buy a turbo or supercharged car or a car with a bigger bhp output.
 
flowerpowerdave":2s5nr94p said:
Don't buy a n/a car if you want to increase your bhp - it costs too much. Buy a turbo or supercharged car or a car with a bigger bhp output.
Click to expand...

+1
 
singlespeed":3d1444e9 said:
Whatever you do, DO NOT smash the cat material out of the original manifold :?
That would leave a large volume expansion chamber where the four header pipes meet. This would slow down the gasses at the point where a faster flow would be better which will undoubtedly give a bad flat spot at low to mid range, which would be worse than any top end gains (if there were any)

I'm biased, so maybe Chicken or MadMatt can say if my motor is any good...
Click to expand...
Listen to this man, his motor is an animal
 
thanks for all these answers ! i will do nothing on the motor so .... ^^
lose weight and change for light wheel should be good :)
 
Lose weight for definite. Get your car weighed on a 4 plate set to establish your Time = 0 weight distribution, you want to maintain/optimise this, not removing too much weight from either corner/front/back of your car.

Iron Blocks in the front on the engine bay behind the bumper can be removed for a good weight loss. Remove the standard seats for some fixed mount bucket seats, lose the rear seat while you're there.
Worried about shopping rolling around your boot and where your back seats used to be? Get a Helmet box from OMP or similar.

Lose the Air-conditioning and fit the belt from the 133 Cup.

Keep the standard airbox with aftermarket filter but insulate it well: heat shielding tape (reflect-a-gold etc) and possibly some silicone hoses to smooth the airflow into the throttle body.
Some additional aluminum shielding material around the rear of the engine bay and the area around the intake scoop could also help.
 
What is the iron blocks ?? ( im french sorry ^^ )
And the belt from the 133 cup ?

thanks a lot
 
Sorry, there's a thread here somewhere.

Renault installed Rough Cast Iron Blocks, unprotected, in the front of the engine bay, behind the washer bottle - remove front bumper and is on passenger side (on LHD car). You can remove this to save considerable weight.

Once you remove the total Air Conditioning system, including pump and pulleys, your existing Auxiliary belt will be too long (if it runs other auxiliary systems, some systems use an independent belt/pulley).
If it's independent, just remove the pump, A/C lines, condenser and belt.

If it runs other systems as well (alternator or oil pump etc), you will need to fit the belt from a 133 Cup as these weren't fitted with A/C.
 
the cast iron blocks? were they not fitted by renault to balance the front and improve handling? i understand losing weight but what is on the other side that this block compensates
 
If they were fitted to the front to balance it, they would go through effort to move it for RHD/LHD cars. I've had mine removed for a long time now and haven't felt any negative effects from it.

So as they say, the choice it yours :)
 
apparently iron block is to prevent rust of the car

so maybe not so good idea to remove it
or mebay cut it half and keep some ^^

(pour lesfrançais c'est un bloc de fonte qui est placé dans le moteur on sais pas trop pourquoi mais apparemment pour empêcher que tout le reste rouille)
 
mazmaz":2moxestm said:
apparently iron block is to prevent rust of the car

so maybe not so good idea to remove it
or mebay cut it half and keep some ^^

(pour lesfrançais c'est un bloc de fonte qui est placé dans le moteur on sais pas trop pourquoi mais apparemment pour empêcher que tout le reste rouille)
Click to expand...
how would it prevent rust because rust doesn't really pick where it goes
 
awchh brad ... i wouldn't even begin to try and explain it in a technical manner, i'd need all day. lets just say metallurgy is a strange science, little fairy's from one metal get attracted to other metal and in the name of the fairy allah, they sacrifice themselves to defend from oxygen and protects the whole car. i'm assuming we are referring to the iron blocks which sacrifice themselves to attract the electrons from the earthing points in the car, which then do mortal kombat with the oxygen in the atmosphere...the iron gets hadouken'ed first and diesssssssssssssss....and once it's ran out of lives, your twingo is primed and ready for a chokeslam from the undertaker!!!

hopefully this explains it lol :p
 
BenjiSayers":301om6az said:
I read that and had an urge to say 'flawless victory'
Click to expand...


i don't half talk some shite at times lol. i was thinking FINNISH HIMMMMM. i suppose you get the idea though, the iron blocks act as part of the earthing system. because iron rusts a lot easier than steel it will attract most of the electrons from the earthing points in the chassis which will prevent rust on the chassis itself as long as the iron blocks are in place. that's the theory at least!!!! if you don't understand it, then you can see some youtube videos on electrolysis rust removal. it's basically the same principle as that except it's not done in water. at least i think it's the same principle at work?


(neil? lol)
 
Fatality!

Ha that makes two of us. I'm awaiting the day work gets me carted off to the nut house for all the rubbish I talk at times.

I follow what you mean and get the basics behind it. I love stuff like this and how something as simple as metal can have such traits due things like how it's created and treated to stuff as small as it's basic elemental components.
 
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