Wheels refusing to come off?

Advertise with us
shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Twingo Forum

Help Support Twingo Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Sharpy

Sharpy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
405
Reaction score
0
As title, my speedline are just point blank refusing to come off! the bolts are out and its still on there solid no movment at all, ive even ran and dropkicked them and still nothing :lol: .

Ive had them off a few times before. any plan of action for this? need to finish painting the brakes!


Help is very appreciated!
 
Rubber mallet to the back, when you put them back on make sure it's all dried off behind there and some copper grease on the hub face to prevent this again!

Just keep at it and it'll come off and make sure you're there to catch it :lol: it's not uncommon.
 
A lack of a rubber hammer is an issue right now! haha. Last time a hammer got took to my wheels (standard ones) they got buckled so not so keen on the hammer!

If i take the centre cap off and wd40 the inside, that may do the trick?
 
I would avoid anything like that tbh purely cos of the brakes as you're bound to get it on the disc. And as for the buckledness, that was the reason said mallet should be rubber! How about a towel wrapped around a block of wood against the back of the wheel and hit that? No damage to the wheel and you're bound to have them bits
 
I've used a handy foot before to get the job done :)

Have someone in front of the wheel to catch it and then try and get behind the wheel and give it a kick or two... or several :p
 
this might sound mad but if u havnt got a rubber hammer then a big ass chunk of wood works a treat :eek:

put one of the wheel nuts back in loosely then spray some wd40 or similar into the wheel bolt holes and the driveshaft nut hole then get a piece of railway sleeper or similar, then cloth over your wheel and smack the back of it :twisted:
 
Matt":131dea2a said:
I've used a handy foot before to get the job done :)

Have someone in front of the wheel to catch it and then try and get behind the wheel and give it a kick or two... or several :p
Click to expand...

+1 indeed god gave us 2 aswell.
 
I still havent got it off :lol: ive tyred everything!!

i dont want to kick it too hard incase it falls off the stands!

so now i have 3 red brake callipers and 1 rusty haha
 
before now, i ended up slackening the wheel bolts 1/4 turn and 50 yards slowly up and down the road
 
Sharpy":oqfyiq9g said:
Did it work? running out of ideas.
Click to expand...
If your meaning my sugestion, then yes it did. That was on a Fiat Seicento sporting, which was generaly terrible for the wheels seizing onto the hub. With only 1/4 turn slackened, the wheel will still be located on the spigot ring, but the clamping force from the bolts won't be there, holding the wheel against the hub. A short slow drive with some steering input should break the corrosion between wheel and hub. A local carpark is ideal, driving a tight circle, having the stuck wheel on the outside of the circle.

Caution ***50yards, 5mph - 10mph max***

Once the initial stiction is broken, you should be able to wiggle the wheel free, even if it is still tight on the spigot.

Before re-fitting, clean up the hub spiggot and apply a little bit of copper grease to help removal next time
 
Front wheels - brake pedal fully depressed, normal hammer with clothing wrapped around it. Spray grease the hub pegs, try swivel it back and forwards whilst giving the back of the hub a good few hard thuds. Repeat and it will come off.

Back wheels - same as before, with handbrake on. And if it has drum brakes, simply give the back of the drum a whack or two. Just added this incase anyone reads over it, rubber mallets are freely available for about 5 quid. Spray grease is dirt cheap in halfords etc
 
singlespeed":2r1386ie said:
Sharpy":2r1386ie said:
Did it work? running out of ideas.
Click to expand...
If your meaning my sugestion, then yes it did. That was on a Fiat Seicento sporting, which was generaly terrible for the wheels seizing onto the hub. With only 1/4 turn slackened, the wheel will still be located on the spigot ring, but the clamping force from the bolts won't be there, holding the wheel against the hub. A short slow drive with some steering input should break the corrosion between wheel and hub. A local carpark is ideal, driving a tight circle, having the stuck wheel on the outside of the circle.

Caution ***50yards, 5mph - 10mph max***


Once the initial stiction is broken, you should be able to wiggle the wheel free, even if it is still tight on the spigot.

Before re-fitting, clean up the hub spiggot and apply a little bit of copper grease to help removal next time
Click to expand...

I was going to suggest this too. I've slackened them a bit, then driven off the drive and braked hard at slow speed to loosen a wheel before.

This can damage your car though. See below.
 
davie88GT":win1n3n5 said:
Front wheels - brake pedal fully depressed, normal hammer with clothing wrapped around it. Spray grease the hub pegs, try swivel it back and forwards whilst giving the back of the hub a good few hard thuds. Repeat and it will come off.

Back wheels - same as before, with handbrake on. And if it has drum brakes, simply give the back of the drum a whack or two. Just added this incase anyone reads over it, rubber mallets are freely available for about 5 quid. Spray grease is dirt cheap in halfords etc
Click to expand...
That's perfect when on a decent jack or lift and having a second person or bar to depress the brake pedal. Not so handy if you only have the scissor jack or stuck with a puncture at the side of the road ;)

It's one of the things where prevention is probably easier, so a little copper grease around the hub spiggot makes a stuck wheel much less likely :cool:
 
Araf please do not do that, with no nuts to hold the wheel in balance you run a massively high risk of warping and bending the hub pegs not to mention damaging the threads inside your alloys, aswell as throwing your tracking out. I recently replaced a full disc after a guy done that on his standard clio and on further inspection he had bent and warped the entire drive shaft, track rod end was missing and needed an entire new alloy. What woulda been free at his local garage turned into a bill costing over a grand! They do that in scrapyards for a reason, and they use rubber mallets and spray grease on £expensive£ cars for another reason lol
 
singlespeed":2h5e5577 said:
davie88GT":2h5e5577 said:
Front wheels - brake pedal fully depressed, normal hammer with clothing wrapped around it. Spray grease the hub pegs, try swivel it back and forwards whilst giving the back of the hub a good few hard thuds. Repeat and it will come off.

Back wheels - same as before, with handbrake on. And if it has drum brakes, simply give the back of the drum a whack or two. Just added this incase anyone reads over it, rubber mallets are freely available for about 5 quid. Spray grease is dirt cheap in halfords etc
Click to expand...
That's perfect when on a decent jack or lift and having a second person or bar to depress the brake pedal. Not so handy if you only have the scissor jack or stuck with a puncture at the side of the road ;)

It's one of the things where prevention is probably easier, so a little copper grease around the hub spiggot makes a stuck wheel much less likely :cool:
Click to expand...

I second that sir!!!,
But most garages will take it off for free if they're not scumballs or mechanic will take an underhand tenner. Beats the grand or two repair. Where's chuck norris when you need him
 
Top