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when ever someone mentions Toureg, i think of the rally version. hehe
reading this seems like i may go long the lines go 300mm two bell piece. not a huge increase in size but should help with heat build up as racing fluid is in use and track day pads.
my brakes takes a battering due to two people using it for track days even with cool periods between drivers. really got to get around to some ducting next month when i get time
 
Orb. One of the guys from the uk-mk-ivs forum fitted some ducting to his Mk 4 golf, directing cool air to the center of the disc and it made a surprising difference to disc temps on track (not measured acurately, but hand hot versus nearly untouchable). Fog lights were removed from front grill as the intake and flexi hose attached to the front wishbone with a bracket to secure the hose near the center of the disc. Not trendy, or partucularly prety, but certainly effective as his 312mm discs were enough to lock up when the temp was within range.
 
was thinking through fog lights. going to have that part cut out solid through the front panel but at a later point. would have to cut the rubber covering in the wheel arch for a hole to allow the ducting.
not sure how to do the rears though. my Red stuff seems to be wearing down quicker then Green stuff at front, not sure if thats their design but thought reds would last longer
 
orbital":2bij58fn said:
i have tried CL fluid yet. running SRF and end up costing quite a bit as i have to empty and refil every year at 100 quid a pop. is CL the same where it needs replacing every year?
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how often you need to change the fluid is down to how the car is used. Most manufacturers will recommend DOT 4 brake fluids are changed every year as they are hygroscopic and adsorb water over time (through the breathers, caliper piston seals etc) which boils at 100 °C and lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. The Wet boiling point is the temperature at which a given brake fluid boils when it has taken on 3.7% H2O
 
singlespeed":2m03o3gc said:
As Kam Racing mentioned, theres pads avaliable that can work to extremely high temps. however the low temp friction can be a little exciting to say the least. Pagid RS-14 pads can cope with discs that are practicaly melting and were fine for normal driving during the summer.But, durring the cold winter weather they were quite entertaining or scary at times at the end of the driveway when stone cold, or the end of a long straight section. In future, I will sort some forced air cooling and won't be going for big discs and won't be fitting top end race spec pads again. RS4-2 were ok, but RS14 are severe overkill
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one option is to have two sets of pads and just change over when you go on track to ones that can cope with heat better
 
singlespeed":7h6o2mtt said:
How do the R2's cope with 280mm vented front and 240mm solid rear discs?
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quite similar to the stock 133, I guess. It's the same caliper. as far as I know only disc-material (tempered) and brakepads (pagid race pads) differ
 
singlespeed":u1rnvza2 said:
How do the R2's cope with 280mm vented front and 240mm solid rear discs?
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High Carbon disc, Racing Fluid, Pagid Racing pads and the brakes are ducted.

singlespeed":u1rnvza2 said:
Madmatt. If your serious about 330x28mm discs, theres a few motors with these standard and various offsets for the bells from the Pagid catalogue
Alfa 159/spider with a 39.7mm bell
Various big Mercs with a 46.5mm bell... Grooved or plane
Porch Cayenne/ VW Toureg/ Audi Q7 with 73.5mm bell
The above motors should ring alarm bells when compared to the weight and power of a twingo!
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I also found out AP offer the 330x28mm discs for Evo's up to the 7 (I think, don't quote me) and cited an aftermarket 17" wheel for fitment.
I also looked through my old editions of Banzai (Japanese Car nut too) and found out that their mental Time Attack Pulsar GTIR used the same disc size, albeit with 8 Pot D2 Calipers on an 18x11" rim.

So now....I think I'll be flogging the Wilwoods and going to a 300mm disc. Too much cost involved in the disc sizes involved.

M
 
R2 is all down to hits brake pads, fluid and ducting.

SRF stated on the bottle to be changed every year and renault guys the put it in for me, do about 2 track goings and 20k+ miles a year. high milage :(

if your after discs you can bot on, Hi-Spec do 1 piece or 2 piece bell disc for clio that would bolt straight on, 300/20mm and can be brought from ktec or them self. not sure there thickness but designed for 4/6 pots so their worth a look at as you know they'll attach right, just seeing if your pots would work with them.
 
madmatt":ixphezoh said:
singlespeed":ixphezoh said:
How do the R2's cope with 280mm vented front and 240mm solid rear discs?
Click to expand...

High Carbon disc, Racing Fluid, Pagid Racing pads and the brakes are ducted.
Click to expand...


The R uses Carbon Lorraine pads.
 
Thanks Al =)

I could Imagine they wouldn't be great from cold, but then again, they do have to work straight away....most drivers have their Nav remind them that they're on cold brakes and tyres.

Given the sizes of disc my 4 pots were designed to work with, I'd have to find out about the disc width and what they're like on pad sweeping area...

M
 
madmatt":1eqjvjrm said:
Thanks Al =)

I could Imagine they wouldn't be great from cold, but then again, they do have to work straight away....most drivers have their Nav remind them that they're on cold brakes and tyres.

Given the sizes of disc my 4 pots were designed to work with, I'd have to find out about the disc width and what they're like on pad sweeping area...

M
Click to expand...

From what I've heard I don't think they are "bad" but they certainly squeak quite a bit.
 
Orb you're obsessed with brakes lol

I'd love to see you put bigger ones on but as I've said many times before if the R uses the same callipers and disk size then it's more than good enough for me. Anything more = overkill and bias issues ;)
 
i think i'll go for bigger discs and ducting and track pads when they come out. least with bigger discs taking then heat better me and old man can quick swop on track.

least theres a method that it can be done without spending 100's on. 406 brembo going for about 295, dont need discs just brake lines and bang your done (hopefully). NOW light weight brakes ;) i could par-take. lol

i think with the R its down to the pads fluid and sharing high carbon discs that allow it to keep going, like you said more then enough to stop it but for how long. you've had some near calls with yours, and thank god for that as i was straigh in there swopping my fluid before silverstone. although seeing the couple next to me boiling the 133s liquid, then carrying on driving it.... was a bit stunned with that.
 
ive overcooked my brakes once racing an rs turbo, pulled onto the drive with smoke coming from them. was scary times.

ive got apec discs and pads all round now and some 5dot1 fluid and its been fine ever since, the apec brakes are mint, would recommend them to anyone, they arent too expensive either.
 
True I have, but it was pads and they lived a hard life for those 8k miles. Fluid should never boil as long as you stick to the no more than 15-20mins at a time rule with equal periods of cool down in between. You have to remember these aren't racing cars and capable of doing 10's of laps at a time and never will be.

With my current - standard - brake set up showing I can keep pace with 200's, 22's, 250's etc into, round and out of corners it's a testament to how well set up they are. I imagine the R is mind-blowing once warm!
 
i can picture renault slipping in some cheap halfords fluid in there lol.

have you sorted out your brake ducting yet? too lazy to start chopping at the inner arch lining and zip ties. hehe

would be nice to nip past the 250's just before the corner and slam them on. hehe. i;ve got to get around to putting back discs on and changing front pads before metal eats metal. thens the 2500 pads out? i've got about 3% left on the pads i believe :(
 
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