RS160 - Twingo Gordini #159

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JoeRS133":3wz5ae34 said:
Were the bc coilovers a 'straight fit?' Also are they a set damping etc and just height adjustable or both?

1. Yes, they were a straight fit, having the correct 60mm bolt spacing on the front and the brackets for the front ARB and a point to attach the front ABS wire bracket onto just like the original damper.
2. The ride height can be set seperately to the damper travel/preload, so the damper will still retain its travel over the full range of height adjustments.
3. There is 30 step damping adjustment. From very soft to quite harsh. Mid to 2/3 hard is probably ideal for most roads.
4. Camber/Caster adjustment on the front topmounts.
5. Some camber adjustment on the front damper mounting bolts, to get the side to side camber spot on
6. The rear end isn't height adjustable to the mm, as they use shims instead of a threaded platform. Theres still a good range of heights from a decent drop (like mine is currently sat on the fully raised height) right down to a slammed look like Ollie.


Really in an ideal world I'd like coilovers with all the neccessary bits to make sure the alignment is 100% and some wheels and tyres thay dont rub all in for underb £1500 is that possible?
Considering the BC coilovers come complete with the topmounts, the price aint too bad. Which would be £200 if you wanted to add the AST equivalent ones onto a set of Weitec struts.
https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/uprated/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers/renault/twingo.html

Maggi managed to fit his himself and learnt a fair bit about them allong the way. Not bad for a non technical accountant :cool:

Add in some rear camber/toe shims if needed and you have a reasonably wide range of adjustment from prety mild to track spec. Setting it all up may be expensive if you get everything set up at a garage and pay full price

Add a set of AD08 tyres at ~£80 each, which still leaves a decent amount for some 15" rims.
 
I'm definitely thinking some Oz F1's with some AD08 to compliment the new 16" rubber. Think Carrie will have something to say about this though :lol:

Joe it really isn't very hard to do, but I like to know all the facts and love understanding more than I probably need to :lol:

I reckon with the information I had, and enough time to actually sit and do it (I did it a few nights after work when the light was fading at about 7:30-8pm so only really about an hour each night I had to spare) I could of done this without bugging Neil half as much.

I've done this, with 16" 182 wheels which are currently away at the powdercoaters having new rubber fitted to 2 of the wheels (I'll enjoy shredding the two remaining good tyres they came with), and it's cost under £1k
 
singlespeed":3f8aqi0x said:
maggi112":3f8aqi0x said:
How far have you bent the tabs back?
The only thing I've bent (so far) is the small tabs on the rear arches, around the bumper/body joint as pictured previously.

If the CXRs fit over the calipers as ET47 then thats a probable option. If they wouldn't fit then I think I'll keep the 2118s and make some clearance to get them to work.

Et45 16x7 with 195/45r16 has not rubbed in the slightest on the back of mine running the single 6mm spacer only.

What does the camber shim add? I've not measured now much clearance I have yet but I'm very happy they fill the arch enough and no rubbing on the front
 
maggi112":29h5rvay said:
singlespeed":29h5rvay said:
maggi112":29h5rvay said:
How far have you bent the tabs back?
The only thing I've bent (so far) is the small tabs on the rear arches, around the bumper/body joint as pictured previously.

If the CXRs fit over the calipers as ET47 then thats a probable option. If they wouldn't fit then I think I'll keep the 2118s and make some clearance to get them to work.

Et45 16x7 with 195/45r16 has not rubbed in the slightest on the back of mine running the single 6mm spacer only.

What does the camber shim add? I've not measured now much clearance I have yet but I'm very happy they fill the arch enough and no rubbing on the front
A 1/2 degree shim should tilt the top corner of the tyre inwards by about 2.5mm. Although the wedge shaped shim is has a bit of thickness to take into account so, the actual change in clearance would be less. Still, that and levering the top of the arch outwards has resulted in no rubbing with the ET43 Speedlines recently :cool:

Much as I like the Compomotive CXR wheels, after some thought, I don't think they would look right with the mudflaps and relatively high ride height :?
 
Oh and I lowered the front to 94mm between the rings which so far hasn't resulted in anything horrendous, however, it has just rubbed entering a multistorey so will be raising it this week by a few mm to stop it. It's much lower on the new wheels than before though
 
Part two of the rear brace turned up today :)
3m long, 44.5mm diameter and 2.6mm wall CDS

I think the angle grinder and drill will be busy tomorrow, cutting some 3mm sheet steel for the end brackets. That should keep the neighbours happy.
 
Looks good Neil. Ill assume you're not adjusting very often, no space to anyway :lol:

My rear has started to creak at the back quite badly over bumps the last 2 days so hopefully will get time to inspect this weekend. Otherwise it's all good still. It might not help the boot needs adjusting also
 
Why would you not just get a strut brace ?? This to me looks like more of a chassis brace

Is there any reason for this over a strut brace ??
 
Mags. The damper adjusters are fine to get in and out and adjust.

You wouldn't want to attach harnesses onto the OMP strut brace... using brace in the loosest sence as attaching onto rubber mountings must be questionable for the increase in rigidity.

I'm thinking Malta blue
 
Callum-stirling":1xi4d9ee said:
Why would you not just get a strut brace ??

You realise you posted this in Neil's progress thread right? Just getting a strut brace is to easy. Neil will just build anything out of sheer boredom I think.
 
Its only 44mm diameter and 2.6mm wall. MSA blue book minimum is 40mm and 2.0mm as an additional bar onto a cage
 
Callum-stirling":2x3m0hdz said:
Why would you not just get a strut brace ?? This to me looks like more of a chassis brace

Is there any reason for this over a strut brace ??
9366731124_5f837aa4ec_b_d.jpg



9363979847_e3342fb1d8_b_d.jpg


MovingShadow":2x3m0hdz said:
That looks massive & heavy :shock:
Removed:-
36Kg for the pair of rear seats,
21.2Kg for the passenger seat
22.7Kg for the drivers side.
A few Kg for all the original seatbelts but I've not weighed them

Added:-
4.6Kg for the bar, so not too bad
12.5Kg for the each seat, inc mounts and harnesses (so 25Kg)

With 20 hours scheduled for the weekend, I hope there comfy on a long run :?

Right, time to give it a wash and hoover out :evil:
 
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