Yotah´s RS Cup "Nurburgring Edition" -> 204hp F4R832 swap.

[yotah1]

I will look into that when I have the engine in my hands and when I decide what king of upgrades I´ll do on it before putting it into the car, meanwhile, just having fun with the lady

Regarding the pads transference, you summarized it perfectly, and that´s also why the CL pads are so noisy...

 

[Matthias]

The king of upgrades I know it was a mistake, but it actually summarizes what you are, because of what you’ve done to your car. Great stuff though, keep up the good work!

 

[yotah1]

It will only be details until the massive work for the new engine and all the rest, but they should help it look better.

On the to-do list which doesn´t cost an arm (this winter):
- carbon door panels
- rear carbon interior panels + footrest to install
- change my 15" Team Dynamics for 15" OZ Ultraleggera
- stickering for the trackday "paintjob"
- carbon covering for fog inserts, wing, mirrors (but wing will be done in real carbon next year, as well as mirrors)
- new front brakes discs and air ducts (i must model them to produce them in carbon too)
- sealing in place the suspensions (all the screws to avoid any un-screwing which could screw my day and my car!!)
- change the rear strut brace
- receive and install the lower anti-roll bar supports on the front suspensions
- rear lower anti-roll bar from Clio 2 RS
- seat support needs a minor modification
- complete cleaning with Meguiar´s products, because the lady must shine

So not so much before next season, but still, work in progress means constant evolution

 

[singlespeed]

- sealing in place the suspensions (all the screws to avoid any un-screwing which could screw my day and my car!!)

wire locking is very effective for securing a nut onto a fixed stud, or a bolt into a captive nut if done corectly. However it would mean drilling the nuts or bolts and it is a bit of an art form to do neatly. 0,7mm stainless wire is ok to work with.

It's always fun when you lock some difficult bolts and then realise it is anti-locked... Snip

castle nuts and drilling the bolt for a split pin is probably the best way to secure a nut/bolt assembly

 

[mazmaz]

why you want to change the anti roll bar?

when i look on track clio2RS take more roll than the twingo that stay more flat !

 

[frediiii]

why you want to change the anti roll bar?

when i look on track clio2RS take more roll than the twingo that stay more flat !

I think he was talking about an additional roll-bar like this:

 

[yotah1]

Lower anti-roll bar will be this one yes, but I will change the top strut brace for a different one, mine is showing signs of exhaustion ...

 

[madmatt]

I think he was talking about an additional roll-bar like this:

OOOOOOOH I LIKE
OOOOOOOH, I WANT! :lol:

 

[frediiii]

OOOOOOOH I LIKE
OOOOOOOH, I WANT! :lol:

ask k-tec... I think they have enough of them to be willing to sell you one

 

[mazmaz]

So the best is to take the one of the TwingoR2 gravel, it's highly reinforced (fixation also)

 

[yotah1]

Twingo r2 is a complete rear axle, not an anti-roll bar, and retail price is far from being the same, plus they only build it to order...

 

[yotah1]

Just came back from 3 days at the Ring, my last trackday this year. Toolbox stolen and a few problems fixed on the car, but mainly a new laptime in 8'40"07, so 10 complete seconds faster than my previous record, and 5 very cool videos

I also managed to make a friend sick during a lap, so had to pull over on the grass and get him out so he could spit out all his lunch!! I also scared the shit out of a fellow Ringer who drives an M3 CSL, he came with as a passenger, and tried to hold on to anything he could find in the car during the whole lap

 

[Matthias]

Congratulations on the new lap time! Do you think it has a lot to do with the new suspension set-up (coilovers) or are you just getting better and better all the time?

 

[yotah1]

A bit of both, I went one gear upper on some sections of the track, and I went much faster on some corners where I was braking before, but the suspensions setup is getting there, and also I had the geometry of the car done on Friday so now it drives straight!

 

[Matthias]

Congratulations again, those are some amazing times and I'm sure you'll be able to get it below 8:40! One short question - you seemed pretty happy with the stock suspension so far, for all those who don't want to go down the coilover road just yet, do you think fitting a lowering springs such as H&R is a good investment or should we just keep it stock? I just want an answer based on your track experience and some imagination H&R springs drop the car for 20mm and they are slightly stiffer. So hypothetically speaking should that be better or worse?

 

[madmatt]

H&R springs drop the car for 20mm and they are slightly stiffer. So hypothetically speaking should that be better or worse?

Just thought I'd drop in here, from what I saw from the H&R Springs on someone else's 133, a few of the coils were actually touching each other, can't imagine it gives much more movement if the spring's already nearing max compression from standstill

Hope you didn't lose much with the toolbox Yotah, gutting there are thieving bastards amongst Ring Folk

 

[Matthias]

I saw that as well, but had a long talk with him and he seemed pretty satisfied with them. Out of all aftermarket springs they seem the best as the drop isn't too big and H&R should know what they are doing (not saying other springs are bad at all!) even though those coils touching each other are something to worry about. However I don't want this to become an off-topic, so all I want is an honest opinion - keep the suspension stock and not mess anything up, or go for the springs as a "mid" stage upgrade before either deciding to go back to stock or go for coilovers.

 

[yotah1]

Mounting lowering spirngs is good for the looks, but nothing else. With these, your shocks are not going to work in their proper setup, the one they´ve been intensively developped for (especially as the Cup suspensions on the Twingo are brilliant), your shock will always be a little compressed, by 20mm, so it means that basically even at a stand still, it is "working". That deteriorates your shocks pretty quickly and in a year or so it will ruin your ride. Keep it stock until you have the money to do a proper coilies setup.

Regarding the toolbox thief, well that´s about 700€ gone ...

 

[yotah1]

1st video from this weekend, to close the season. A now so-called slow lap, as i do around 8'50, but still a happy passenger at the end of the lap

4 more videos to come, with some very cool battles in it.

[youtube]8pnfy8TlXd4[/youtube]

2nd lap filmed, under 8'50, even though i slowed down at the start to check up on my friend who was stopped on the side of the track.

[youtube]HVPGpxOG1Yg[/youtube]

 

[yotah1]

[youtube]xsnlDGnm_r0[/youtube]