RS160 - Twingo Gordini #159

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Booked back in for the cam timing to be re-adjusted back to the intended settings, which should help bring some torque back and then some more mapping.
 
neil, where did you get your stud conversion kit from?

have you noticed any down sides to do it since you put them on?

thanks
 
Pure Motorsport. 80mm stud kit (they now do it as 75mm)
Upsides are, the wheel is supported so there's less chance of bashing the rim against the brake caliper whilst fitting. They have stayed tight without stretching. You could fit spacers if you wanted.

Downsides. Looks like Ben Hurs chariot. Wheels with hub caps won't go on
 
singlespeed":z3go6rm9 said:
Pure Motorsport. 80mm stud kit (they now do it as 75mm)
Upsides are, the wheel is supported so there's less chance of bashing the rim against the brake caliper whilst fitting. They have stayed tight without stretching. You could fit spacers if you wanted.

Downsides. Looks like Ben Hurs chariot. Wheels with hub caps won't go on

thank you
 
Much neater wiring going to the coils and inlet temp sensor :cool:
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I can't get over this build now buddy had a good read through last night after not being on for a real good while! Love it bud!!!
 
singlespeed":2h9sk7f6 said:
Airbag lights are now off :)

2amp fused 3ohm resistors fitted to where the seat airbag and pre-tensioner wires would have been connected. So, two each seat if you have airbags. The two wires next to the end of the connector are for the pre-tensioner and the next two wires are for the side airbag.

I kept them separate by folding one either side of the connector and then wrapping in insulating tape. Apparently the thinking on the fuse is, if the airbags or tensioners were to be triggered by the ecu then the fuse will blow.

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but what did you do about the weight sensor in the passenger seat? I hadn't thought about this. Unless you weren't concerned with having the airbag still functioning.

I want the passenger airbag to still function. I don't know if it is possible to remove the weight sensor and refit it to the bucket seat, or if you can fool the system and make it think there's always a passenger by using a resistor. The last option sounds easier it's just finding out what the resistance needs to be.
 
markhardy":3ty4nk31 said:
singlespeed":3ty4nk31 said:
Airbag lights are now off :)

2amp fused 3ohm resistors fitted to where the seat airbag and pre-tensioner wires would have been connected. So, two each seat if you have airbags. The two wires next to the end of the connector are for the pre-tensioner and the next two wires are for the side airbag.

I kept them separate by folding one either side of the connector and then wrapping in insulating tape. Apparently the thinking on the fuse is, if the airbags or tensioners were to be triggered by the ecu then the fuse will blow.

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but what did you do about the weight sensor in the passenger seat? I hadn't thought about this. Unless you weren't concerned with having the airbag still functioning.

I want the passenger airbag to still function. I don't know if it is possible to remove the weight sensor and refit it to the bucket seat, or if you can fool the system and make it think there's always a passenger by using a resistor. The last option sounds easier it's just finding out what the resistance needs to be.

I may be completely wrong but I think the weight sensor is purely for the seatbelt light to remind you to put your seatbelt on. I don't think it has any effect on the airbag system as this is triggered by impact sensors and should go off regardless.
 
callums correct mark, it's the sensor that's responsibly for that bastar.......of a beeping noise when you've took your seatbelt off to reverse. the passengers side front airbag will still work as that's independant from the passengers side airbag, these will only not work as you're removing the seats which is where the side airbags are located :)
 
Stopped off for some food on the way back from having the Inlet and exhaust cam timing reset, then remapped again
131.4hp at the wheels

159.6hp compensated
129 FtLb compensated

A reasonable increase from last time :)
 
all the teething problems vanquished now neil? you'll be hot on the heels of a 172 now. next stage weight reduction for your hill climb plans??
 
Yeah, getting close to being snag free.

I can probably loose 20kg easy enough, without going all stripped out.
If Simon cant get the climate control fully working onthe CanBus , that may be another few Kg
 
So is this all the mapping with the bodies done now buddy? I need to have mine on a run at RS !
 
benmc":1l5r8ipn said:
So is this all the mapping with the bodies done now buddy? I need to have mine on a run at RS !
Yes :cool:
The gain in power between 2500-3250 and slight loss at 3500 are with a much steadier AFR. It managed another 1/2Hp more, but required another two degree of timing, so Paul decided it wasnt worth it.
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Well, there maybe some more power to be got if it ran over 8K but you know what that would entail and I'm not going there :?
 
haha looking real good!! and i supose ktec basically tried ******* you over with the figures in a sense with the original cams buddy?
 
Yesterday, whilst resetting the inlet cam back to the timing slots, Andy also had to reset the exhaust cam too, as the exhaust cam was slightly advanced. which may account for the drop in power from the initial fitment.

The exhaust idle note is slightly quieter and on the drive back last night, the exhaust was definately quieter at motorway speeds.

RR figures are never going to be perfect as theres too many variables, but yesterday Paul possibly upset someone by telling them that theit VX wouldn't ever make the figures they had in mind. Figures which were quoted from elsewhere
 
i know alot of people hold pauls rollers in great heights... i.e if you make good figures on pauls you are good! i might have mine mapped by him properly at some point as ive had a generic from henk and feels spot on but i have to get it mapped with my mods ive had it rr'd but dont really trust the readings we tried calculating roughly what it should be but that was also before the exhaust was put on :|
 
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